Author Topic: Fletch some shafts  (Read 332 times)

Offline Balding Kansan

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 366
Fletch some shafts
« on: December 01, 2009, 09:40:00 PM »
I would like to fletch some cedar blanks. My question is, how do i know what spine to order without having my bow done. I know i'm probably going about it backwards but i can't work on bows in the small confinement of an apartment. The only help i can be is that i draw 65 lbs @ 29" on a custom kodiak t/d, and would like to end up with an osage self bow around the same draw weight, only non-centershot. I'm not sure if arrows are appropriate in the bowyers bench, but any input would be helpful nonetheless.
I hate rudeness in a man...won't tolerate it. -Lonesome Dove
Hill Country Harvest Master
KennyM Swap bow

Offline Art B

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 1398
Re: Fletch some shafts
« Reply #1 on: December 02, 2009, 06:42:00 AM »
Your draw is going to be shorter with these selfbows so you should plan on that. But a good rule of thumb is to order the same spine weight as your selfbow draw weight but make your arrows 2-3" longer than your draw. Some adjustment in length, point weight, rear tapering and sanding may be in order but if you're shooting for a 65# selfbow then order some 65# spined shafts and go from there. ART

Offline strungstick

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 97
Re: Fletch some shafts
« Reply #2 on: December 02, 2009, 11:22:00 PM »
One "rule-of-thumb" I've used that has worked pretty good for me is drop the spine weight as you get away from center shot (for untapered shafts).  Ussually on laminated longbows I'll start 5 lbs. under spine for starters and adjust from there.

Users currently browsing this topic:

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
 

Contact Us | Trad Gang.com © | User Agreement

Copyright 2003 thru 2024 ~ Trad Gang.com ©