fieblings (sp?) leather dye

[Coach]

I like this product and was told it worked good on a bamboo backing, which it does.  My problem is on the side of the bamboo, where I have trapped it, I like to scrape over after the dying for a clean line.  This dye saturates so well I can not scrape it out.  Is there a way to thicken this stuff so you can control it more?  Thanks, Coach

[macbow]

I don't think you can thicken it. The only thing I might suggest is to coat the edges with something to keep it from staining that area then use something else or leave clean.
Ron

[Tommy Leach]

Shane, can you take a small amount out and leave it in an open container and let it evaporate? If it is alcohol based it will evaporate much faster than a water based dye. I reduced some polk salad berries a couple of years ago with just a little heat. Just a thought. tommy

[reddogge]

In my experience the only way to get dye out is to sand it out.  It goes into the wood.  It's like applying water to the bow.  My try to use alcohol and 0000 steel wool to see if that will cut it some.

[AkDan]

hmm....why not tape it off so you dont get any dye in that area to begin with?  Not sure it wont soak in far enough to bleed over to the scraped edges but if it does it might not be bad enough that the finish scraping wont take it out..instead of coating the hole thing and then trying to scrape down to bare white bamboo?  Just a thought.

[Bowferd]

We are going back a few dozen years here, but, if I remember correctly, use the Fieblings full strength. Whatever you do not wish to be penetrated should be coated with vaseline or sinilar product(WD40). I'd use a cotton swab(Q-Tip) just to control application.
If you really want to have a good time, set a match to the Fieblings while it's still wet.
Should give you some interesting patterns and burn marks. I used to let it dry and then add a bit of Isopropyl (91%) put a match to it. The alcohol will burn fast but the wood burns slow.
You may end up with a perfectly camo bow.
(Warning) If you are young enough to sport a full head of hair and a full beard, don't try this at home.

[Eric Krewson]

Before I stain bamboo on a BBO I run a small piece of rag with Tru-oil down the edges of the bamboo, just a light coat. After you stain the back of the bamboo the edges will be lighter and may need another coat of stain to even up the color side to side on the bamboo.

Here is how the stain comes out if you put a coat of Tru-oil on the edges of the bamboo before you put the leather dye on, very even color.

 

[K. Mogensen]

Originally posted by Bowferd:
We are going back a few dozen years here, but, if I remember correctly, use the Fieblings full strength. Whatever you do not wish to be penetrated should be coated with vaseline or sinilar product(WD40). I'd use a cotton swab(Q-Tip) just to control application.
If you really want to have a good time, set a match to the Fieblings while it's still wet.
Should give you some interesting patterns and burn marks. I used to let it dry and then add a bit of Isopropyl (91%) put a match to it. The alcohol will burn fast but the wood burns slow.
You may end up with a perfectly camo bow.
(Warning) If you are young enough to sport a full head of hair and a full beard, don't try this at home.

Just curious, would you happen to have any pictures of bows that you've done this on? I would like to see how it turns out...