First bow done

[Tyler Langston]

I made my first laminated bow today and I used the bike inner tube method to clamp it down and on the fadeouts of the riser I got some gaps where I can see daylight and also on the back of the riser.
Will the bow still be ok or what?

[AALLFAB]

I have seen some vintage bows with intentional gaps in the riser but if in the limbs and anywhere by the thin fade area i think it would blow up. Jim

[Pat B]

The fades get a lot of stress because the leverage from the limbs is concentrated there. You may be able to fill the voids with glue to remedy the problem but a glass bow bowyer should say for sure.

[sulphur]

tyler sounds like your fades weren't smooth enough.   I use inner tubes also but only on the limbs, for the fade areas i use c-clamps.  also i have a aluminum pressure strip to even out the clamping force.  i would fill the gaps with super glue.  can we see some pics??  Do you have a pulley system for your tiller tree??  if not i get one set up before attempting to bend that bow.  BE SAFE!!  here is a pic of my set up for tillering.  the pulley is at the bottom
 

[sulphur]

here is pic of one of my glue ups.  
 
notice in the fade areas i have two clamps on each side and one big one on top of the riser.

[Swissbow]

On my first laminated bow I also had some gaps at the fades of the riser. Because the fades where not smooth enough. I have filled the gaps with epoxy and the bow still shots fine. But I don't know how big the gaps on your bow are, so better be careful.

On the second one I added two clamps just like sulphur and the fades turned out nice.

On the third one I only used the rubber bands and no clamps and here also the glue lines turned out nice and even and no gaps. But the radius of the fades on the riser have to be smooth and even and the fades need to be paper thin. And make sure that the lams don't come together to steep. I always use a small piece of wood to back the fades when I sand them paper thin, this prevents them from breaking off. Before I glue up the lams I always do a dry run to check if everything fits together the way it should. If not I still can rework the riser until it fits perfect.


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Andy

[Tyler Langston]

Thanks for the info guys I will try to post some pics of It.

[Tyler Langston]

As you can see the gaps are on the fadeouts of the riser and on the back side of the riser. They are big enough your fingernail will fit into them. These are pics before I put superglue down in them. They filled up some after I put glue in them.
 
 
 
 
 

[pditto613]

If this is your first bow, go ahead and complete it will be good practice.  Then put on safety glasses, gloves and longsleeves and shoot it.

[Tyler Langston]

Im just wondering If this thing is going to blow if I shoot it.
Its only .405" thick
and it has:
2- glass .035"
1- core glass .035"
3- layers of .100" osage tapers

[sulphur]

tyler that doesn't look to bad, could be better, but i say clean up the excess epoxy and rough out the limbs.  If you haven't got a pulley system set up yet do that first.  that way you can stand back while you bend it the first time.  You will need it anyway, if your going to be building more bows.  My mild R/D longbows only measure .375" total stack for a 50# bow.  the first couple will have a big learning curve.  Hang in there!

[Tyler Langston]

ok what grit would you rough out the lams with?
and could you tell me how to build a pulley sytem or show me some pics. thanks

[fixer]

Sulpher has a good approach use pulley and stand back, better safe than sorry, or injured.  

[sulphur]

sorry missed your last post, been away from the computer for a few days.  just mount a 2x4 on a wall, attach a cradle or shelf to hold your bow.  then go down at least 30 inches and mount a pulley (any hardware store should have one).  run a rope through the pulley and attach it to your bow string with a hook.  this way you can stand back away from the bow while you flex your limbs.  It gives you a better look at the way you limbs are bending while tillering.