High Gloss Finish

[Loren Holland]

has anyone tried the super glue finish i have seen on a couple of build alongs on this site? I haven't tried it on a bow yet, but it did wonders on a small skinner handle scales i did for a friend for christmas. just curious, cause i don't have a spray gun or paint room handy!

[AkDan]

I thought the superglue was there as a seal coat for oily woods like bacote?!?!  Not a complete finish unto itself.

[Loren Holland]

I have sprayed with Deft, based on Sam Harper's build along, and it does indeed dry very quickly, even over oily woods. I have used it over Ipe.  I thought the use of super glue was to fill pourous wood for a good finish, that was hard and glossy.  i saw Nick (Dutchwarbow) use it in a build along for boo over Ipe. I was just curious who else had done it, if it was a common, and viable, inexpensive finish. when i said it worked well for the knife handle, i really mean, a rock hard, glossy finish

[DCM]

AkDan I have read that.  But it doesn't really speak to the effectiveness of other choices, auto finish for example or even spar varnish.  Don't mean to insinuate it's not good, only that MinWax wipe on is lots easier to deal with, fills end grain with fewer coats, and my own personal preference.  And either seem to seal my bow projects about as well... while tru oil or polycrylic for example will bleed color from an osage bow onto a white cloth if soaked by rain.

I don't think you have to work very hard to argue epoxy is waterproof, witness boats, surf boards, fiberglass in general.

[John Scifres]

Cyanoacrylate (CA) Superglue is great for small sealing projects but I about died from the fumes the couple times I tried applying it in any big way.  Wear a proper respirator and have good ventilation if you try it.

For a really fun experiment, get a pile of osage sawdust and mix some CA glue into it to use as a knot filler.  Let it sit for a while and it will start smoking.  A little longer and it will burst into flames, given a decent draft     Really, don't so this.  Really.

[AkDan]

DCM I know what you mean about application...epoxy is no fun...well it's not terrible atleast on arrows, I've never tried it on a bow.  I've got a bbo pretty close I'd like to try it on.

[Teagus]

I had some bad luck with automotive clear coat. Jerry Feagle told me he used Dupont. I had a PPG dist close so I went with that. First mistake was I assumed because the bow flexes, I should use the flex additive for spraying things like flexible body panels. Everything fisheyed. We went insane looking for contamination. Turned out automotive clear coat is intended to go over primed and painted surfaces. Flex agent never was intended to come into contact raw fiberglass. We found this out from the ancient guru at Sickens in Colorado. We ran down to the shop and loaded the gun without flex and it worked. Lots of beers and tears with that one.

I am currently using Defthane Satin until I finish venting my spray booth, then on to Fullerplast.

Mike W

[Teagus]

Also, Auto is highly toxic. I took the PPG spray class in Ohio and got certified. Also, a run is a total nightmare. Got to scuff and clean entire bow. Spent a lot of time with the pnuematic polishing unit. Finally gathered up every can of PPG and walked into the bodyshop down the street and donated it.

[machomanandysavage]

A little trick I learned to remove runs in clear: After the paint has cured, take a razor blade held perpendicular (90 degrees) to the surface where the run is and scrape back and forth. (you're not holding at and angle and trying to "shave" the run). Scrape until the run is gone and flush on the surface, then wet sand blend and polish and it's gone.

Works great and saves a TON of time over trying to sand. I unfortunately have lots of experience with this because I'm not a very good painter.

[machomanandysavage]

and Teagus is right - the paint is highly toxic and a good respirator, goggles, and proper ventilation is a given.