Takedow Limb alignment suggestions

[T Folts]

I mounted my limbs on my take down per the directions and alignment jig from binghams. I used the string method for linning up the tips that I saw in a post and one limb seems to be off.
I have a flat table and when I lay the bow on the table one limb is laying flat on the table and the other is lifted off down the entire length to the tip. I took out the alignment pin and put it back on the table and set the limb straight, so now I think I am going to drill the alignment hole thru the limb fill the old hole and drill from the limb into the riser to get a new pin hole and so everything is lined back up.
So does this sound correct or am I missing something here.
Terry

[Jason Scott]

I don't build takedowns so can't help much. Seems like your idea would work. The hole in the limb is not centered? If it is or isn't too far off re-use it. I would think you should epoxy the hole in the riser and let it set up hard then re-drill. I've seen some guys deal with this issue successfuly in the past.

[jess stuart]

Your plan sounds good to me.  I usually do the same form the get go.  Have you noticed that many t/d have a overlay on the limb where the limb bolts go?  That is there to cover up the very hole you are talking about drilling.

[talkingcabbage]

T-folts, I have a question for you.  I'm trying to make my first td recurve, and am a bit confused.  If the limb is twisted to, say the left side, which side to I take material off of to get it straight.  I'm talking string alignment.  If the tip points to the left, then do I take it off the right side?  If so, where (midlimb, tip, etc)?  

PS.  sorry to hijack your thread.  I was just reading through and thought you'd be a good one to ask!

[T Folts]

I'll have to look at the video again I'm not sure. I noticed my limb wasnt straight so I filled the hole with epoxy and redrilled, now it is good but I havent put a string on yet. Hopefully tonite as one limb is ready I just need to work the other down a bit.
Terry

[T Folts]

Joe,
 the binghams video say's to deepen string nock from the same side  and then remove material from the limb, so if is to the left thats the side you work on.
Terry

[TradBowyer]

t/d bows can be a bear for this reason. The problem with your solution is it works great for one set of limbs but if you try to make another set of limbs, you'll have a hard time ligning up the hole that you drilled. The problem I had wiht the bingham jig is you are actually using it on 4 different centerlines. If you are only 1/32" off on each one, that equates to 1/8" which is enough to throw your limb tips off. you have to draw really thin centerlines and make sure everything is perfect. I have another jig that doesnt require centerlines.

[T Folts]

Tradbowyer
What kind of jig do you have,I'm interested in something different.

[jeff vess]

I stopped using the jig I purchased from bingham because the alignment pin hole for the riser section was off on the jig. The first two td I made limbs didn't line up just right and had to do an extra bit of tillering. I also believe that if u have the bow strung with the tillering stick on it and looking down the limb the side of the limb pointing to the ground is the stronger side and u need to sand that side down. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong but have built about a dz td recurves and that's the way I've always tillered it.

[sw]

I have to agree getting a second set of limbs to line up is a real bear...

I too use a binghams jig and it can be a real pain, just a hair off and your doing some tillering and missing target weight.

I hav tried laser but it still can be off if you do not set it up right.

Drilling the mounting holes and stringing the bow, then ajusting th bow to true and THEN drilling the pin holes thru the mounted limb seems to work...

Id be curious to see a jig thats easier then binghams and very accurate. Lord knows i need one lol...

Dave

[Peckerwood]

I think limb alignment is one of the big hassles in building take downs. When I first got started building bows I had a jig custom made but it was not 100% accurate. You need an exact system to make interchangeable limbs. I am always on the look out for a better system.

I too would like to see TradBowyer's system.

Bill

[TradBowyer]

I'm getting ready to drill a T/D longbow limb, i'll take some pics tomorrow of my jig and post them on here. It seems to work great. My buddy made it for me and I can interchange between longbows nad recurves

[strungstick]

I had a simple jig made by a local machinist.  Used UHMW and had him center and press in drill bushings.  It's attached to a table so it pivots to sit flush with the limb, and the limb is pressed against it with a toggle clamp.  I got the idea from the jig jim Brackenbury made and was shown in the Traditional Bowyers of America book.
As far as getting limbs straight, just think of it as removing material from the strong side.  As you look down the limb it will pull to the strong side.  Removing material fromth the strong side will bring the limb back.  I would try to avoid adjusting the string grooves, keep them even and remove wood from the limb.

[Roy from Pa]

Would like to see the pictures Tim.