Advice on making a caul.

[b.glass]

I have two 1 x 6 pine boards and a 1 x 10 board. I have measured three inches down from the top on each end of the board to put reflex in the staves. I used a flexable board to draw an arc from one end to the other. I plan to cut this out on the two boards and fasten them together and then the two onto the 1 x 10.

Does anyone have any suggestions before I start cutting?

[b.glass]

 

I don't know if these pics will help.

I have a continuous arc from the center of the handle to the tips.

[b.glass]

I think I need something added to make it 2" wide.

[Stiks-n-Strings]

Bona,

 When I made a caul for doing reflex I cut a 2x4 with about the same arc your using.
 
 I need to put me a good stiff piece across the back kinda like it looks like your doing. Just the 2X4 works pretty good for putting some reflex in though.

[b.glass]

Thanks Kris, just wanted some confirmation.  

[John Scifres]

You got it.  Get to cuttin'.  I've been working that pile of osage down from last weekend.  Getting tired  

[DVSHUNTER]

that will work.if it  was me I would also put something elso on to widen it a bit,but if it only reflex and you alreadt have straight wood then it will work fine. I also like to add a board on the side that gives me something to clamp side to side.

[b.glass]

I thought maybe a 1/2 in. plywood piece between the two boards to make it a full 2" wide would be ok.

I do want to straighten a limb so the string will track better.

I have taken the propeller twist out of one limb using dano's method of using steam, a vice grip and a heavy bucket. But I don't see a way other than a caul to make the string track.

[John Scifres]

That'll work.  My first caul was 3 layers of 3/4" plywood laminated and screwed together.

[DVSHUNTER]

I would use the plywood to add some extra width.  I make my cauls out of three 2X8's or 2X10's. I make a profile line then scribe a line two and a half inches wider. After I cut it out I make a copy of it, then a copy that is twice as wide. Then screw them all together. The taller one lets me clamp sideways. Good luck.

[b.glass]

Yep. Exactly what I had in mind, to laminate and screw the layers together. Thanks guys!

[DCM]

One advantage of having your caul a little wider is you can adjust for crookedness along the lenght of the bow more easily, without having to use as many spacers.  I've added thickness, and a heal to mine over they years to the point it must weigh 50#.  I used 2x and 1x pine.

[mike mcguire]

at least 3in wide is easy to work with,,,I have 10 forms that are 6in wide for working real crooked wood,,

[b.glass]

 

Here is my new caul and picture of it with a bow in it that has a very mild "C" shape to it that I would like to get out.

I steamed it for about an hour and put it immediately into the caul, and let it set overnight but it still has the "C" shape.

I will let the moisture stabalize and try it with a heat gun.