walkabout, I did something similar to Undercontrol on my self-warbows; tapering them from a foot outside the riser to imaginary 1" wide nocks, then tapering the last foot even more towards 1/2" wide nocks; an increased taper.
this bow was tillered elliptical(increasing bend towards the tips), but the bend didn't increase on the last foot since it had additional taper; since the tips were similar to those on a pyramidal bow. Great bow, untill I chopped it down for a kidbow.
but Usually I like to taper my limbs straight out of the fades to my 3/8" wide nocks, or start the taper like 1 foot out of the fades; depending on the woods density and the staves dimensions. This is what I suggest on a flatbow.
If I had a bow that tapered from say midlimb to 1/2" tips, and I wanted 3/8" tips,,, well, I wouldn't bee too accurate at all. just doing a few strokes with my spokeshave over the sides till I get where I want. Bowmaking, at least for me, is not rocketscience, but does require little logic and physics.
Nick