Yew bow builders (need all the tips I can get)

[Stiks-n-Strings]

I scraped the Bark off of it a little while ago and I don't see how anyone could follow a ring on that sap wood LOL.

 I got through a few I know and them dudes are paper thin.

 I plan on backing with copperhead skins.

 So are you saying that I can take the sapwood down a little if needed without worrying if I violate the growth rings? All I have worked with is boo backed bows or Osage so this is a new critter for me.

 Also When I build a regular longbow selfbow I build them with the bottom limb 1.5" longer. Should I do that on ths Static curve or both limbs the same length and just put my arrow pass 1.5" above center?

 Thanks for all the help.

 Stiks

[Mark Smeltzer]

Yea I know following a ring on Yew is very hard and lots of people say not worth the effort. If you just follow the contour of the bow and make some effort to stay within a few rings you should be Ok, although I'm sure you know Copper heads will provide no protection.
The way I follow a ring on yew is.... you have to be in bright sunlight and I use my hunting knife as a scrapper, aim for the ring above the one you really want,because you will accidentally go through it. I then sand with my mouse sander down to the next ring. Also the bow is pretty close to final width so there is less surface area to scrape and sand.
I have never made any of my bows longer on the bottom, I tiller 1/8 to 1/4 positive on the bottom and do like you said, make the arrow pass 1.5" above center. Post pictures as you go.

Mark