File For Grizzly Heads?

[Keuka]

I've been looking for a high strength file that will cut the steel on Grizzly broadheads. Most files are made of the same grade steel as the Grizzly and they last only a few stokes. I was told to get a Grobet Swiss 30210V File, but I've been unable to locate one.

Have any of you got a different brand file, that will stand up to the Grizzly? Could you give me the name and model number?

[ChuckC]

Forget the file and use a Lansky type sharpener, or a diamond sharpener.
ChuckC

[Bjorn]

Nicholson Mill Bastard; I use a big one.

[Tree man]

I believe that Kustom King stocks the Grobet files.

[WESTBROOK]

Nicholson works just fine.

Eric

[Cedar Savage]

Has anyone tried the Lil Shaver on Grizzly's?

[Recurve50LBS]

I use the KME sharpner on my Grizzlys. Works really well. They are a sponser on this site and Ron is a first rate guy to talk to.

[Sharpster]

Keuka,
I have spent the last few months trying to locate a file that will stand up to the Grizzlys. Forget Nicholsen, Simonds and even Grobet. I Got a 8" double cut Grobet swiss file that supposedly had a rockwell hardness in the mid 60s. ($26 retail). It worked well for the first 3 or 4 Grizzlys but quickly dulled. I recently received some sample files from an Italian company that are working great so far. These are very hard, aggressive files and as long as they continue to cut after more durability testing, which I think they will, We should have some in stock in the next month or so. I'm dealing with a distributor who only sells in quantity though, so I don't know where you could buy just one or two.

I'll post a "Grizzly files in stock" topic as soon as I'm sure that they are going to hold up in the long term.

-Ron

[Dave2old]

The real need here is not to find a file that will stand up to sharpening more than one or two Grizzly heads before going flat ... but rather a head that comes way too dull with steel too hard. As I've said before and will continue to say unless/untill Grizzly gets the point -- forget Grizzly (damn shame) and let's concentrate on convincing one of the increasing number of broadhead makers who is LISTENING TO US

[Dave2old]

... as I was saying before hitting a wrong button ... Let's support and pressure an interested manufacturer, such as STOS or Zwickey, to go ALL THE WAY with what Dr. Ashby recommends, with a factory-sharpened head that only needs to be honed, not ground down to well below its factory weight (and all the Grizzlys I've weighed are erratic and well below advertised weight). Maybe you don't mind, but I do. Consider the prices they're charging! Save your file money. It won't be long before a great Ashby broadhead, or several, is/are available. I just hope they fly as well as those darned Grizzlies do. dave

[Bjorn]

I sharpen Grizzlies with a very large Nicholson file and that works OK; but I gotta agree with Dave-why do we have to work so darned hard to sharpen a head that has the wrong angle ground in, comes to the customer super dull, dulls your files, and blah blah.
This year I got some STOS heads they are scary sharp right out of the package; fly great and penetrate big time.
Thank you Grizzly for opening my eyes!

[Keuka]

I also use the KME and a diamond hone to put the final edge on the Grizzly. The KME is a great system and worth every penny. However, I find I have to pre-file the head before I hone it. The Grizzly requires the removal of alot of steel, too much for even a course diamond hone. For those of you who haven't tried the KME, it will get the head sooo sharp.

[6X5]

I got a low speed (650rpm) water wheel and high speed (3500rpm)polishing wheel from harbor freight for less than $40.00. Using the water wheel to grind the right angle and then the polishing wheel to polish and final sharpen and I've got scarry sharp Grizzlys in about 15 minutes a head. When I need to touch them up a minute on the polishing wheel and I'm good to go again.

[kibok&ko]

nothing new for most of you guy's but pictures talks sometimes better than a long speech (specialy in french ...)

 http://archasse.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=16371&hl=grizzly

[Sharpster]

Originally posted by Bjorn:
I gotta agree with Dave-why do we have to work so darned hard to sharpen a head that has the wrong angle ground in, comes to the customer super dull, dulls your files, and blah blah.
 

I couldn't agree with you gentelmen more. I get more calls about sharpening Grizzlys than any other broadhead.

Dave, I've given that speech so many times that I've lost count. Just can't believe that they can't get them somewhere near sharp at the factory. Grizzlys are the hardest to sharpen the first time but, even Zwickys, Magnus, Eclipes, Stos, etc. all need quite a bit of work on the initial sharpening. I've noticed that it's primarily the broadheads with laminated tips that come like this. A Magnus I or II comes out of the pack dull as dirt but a Magnus Stinger is pretty stinkin' sharp out of the pack. So is a Bear Super Razorhead, or A Muzzy Phantom, etc.

As a general rule, stainless is harder to sharpen so if they can sharpen those, why can't they pre-sharpen the carbon steel heads?

-Ron

[Gitnadoix]

I actually just flip my belt sander upside down and very lightly and for short little bursts (so as not to create heat) get them close to sharp and then a few minutes on a water stone and they end up so sharp they'll cut ya just lookin at em. And I dont begrudge them time spent doing it. As i would rather be tinkering with archery toys then say well doing any other household chores.

[Dave2old]

I've tried that too. But how do you determine the 25-degree bevel we're after? And I lost at least 20 grains per head. And how do you keep equality between bevel-angle and tip-to-back angle, so that the heads don't go out of balance in flight? That's another frustration with factory-dull Grizzlies -- they fly so beautifully, yet we're forced to start grinding away on them and chance losing that perfect flight. This is not an argument or a challenge, Gitnadoix, but an honest question. The only REAL answer is for Grizzly to come down off the damn ski slope and pay attention to his customers ... or sell to someone who will. Meanwhile, you bet, we have no choice but to keep experimenting. But I'm no machinist, so have no doubt that what does not work for me can indeed work for those with finer hands.

[Overspined]

agreed Dave2old, it's frustrating

[Gitnadoix]

As far as correct angle I just crouch beside the bench and eye-ball it from the side. (wear safety glasses) and make sure the whole length comes in contact with the belt at the same time. Is it 25° or 22 & ¾ not sure and don’t care, so far the only thing that has been able to stop them from a complete pass through has been 8 foot thick cedar or spruce trees, which were on the opposite sides of deer that have tried their best to stop the arrow as well.  Were the broad heads ground out of perfect balance in the process, quite possibly although I doubt they were perfect to start with. But I don’t believe that my level of shooting is finite enough to have that out of true manifest itself in any way observable in my shooting. I dont shoot over 20 yards yet so that may not be long enough for it to have an observable effect ?????

And while outa the box shaving sharp is nice, personally that’s part of what has drawn me to Traditional shooting there is opportunity for hands on involvement in the making, to what ever level you desire, the equipment used to take part in the dance of predator and prey.

[Ray Hammond]

I have been using an auto body rasp to "set" the angle like I want it...then use a small Grobet that is well chalked and/or a quality Nicholson 12 inch file that is well chalked...and have not had the files 'wear out' any quicker than on other heads.

And my Grizzlies are sharper than most double bevel heads I ever used...and I got them pretty sharp too....all heads change weight when you file them....I keep threatening to do a video of the system I use...if I could just get together with someone who has a video camera I could get it done. It does take about 20 grains off a 190... there is nothing that flies better than a grizzly...and honestly, if you are just shooting whitetails and pronghorns, you should just stick with what you can do a good job with.

On the other hand, Grizzlies are a lot cheaper than everything else out there, except for Ribteks..so if you can figure out how to sharpen them, they are good flying, kill well, and are a good bargain.