Need help with hickory board bow

[dposalski]

For the second time in three years I have tried to glue on wood lams around the handle section of this board bow.  The first time, three years ago, I put about an inch and a half handle on the belly only and then began floor tillering.  I cut out a shelf and sight window.

When I started tillering I heard a loud pop and off it came. So I thought OK lets get it tillered further and get it bending away from the grip area, farther out the limbs.  So got them moving in the right direction and applied two 1/4 inch lams on the belly and 1/4 inch one on the back at the handle area.  The bow is about 64" and the handle section was about 12".  So I continued tillering and it started happening again.  Pop, off came the back lam.  

So here we are.  I have a beautiful start to a bow that is bending nicely as we go, but I am worried about the area where I cut the shelf.  I don't want it to break there, so I need to make it stronger.

Ideas for handle design that would minimize the flex in that area and add strength?  I could lower the bow weight and get it bending way out on the limbs and hope it doesn't break, but there has to be a solution.  Maybe a metal bar wrapped under leather?  Thanks.    

[PEARL DRUMS]

Does the limb taper run into your handle section creating a fade? If not the whole bow will bend and the handle will never stick.

[Pat B]

Your 12" handle riser it way too long. If you are starting out with stock 3/4" hickory make your handle 4"(maybe 5") with 1 1/2" to 2" fades. This will allow the added handle riser to sit above the plain of the working limb and it shouldn't come off when drawn.
  If the handle area bends at all a rigid riser will pop off no matter what glue you use.

[John Scifres]

I would glue a 1/8" thick hardwood strip on the back of the handle to add strength.

[lithicchipper]

Experienced the same problem some year's ago.  Pat B. is correct, shortening the handle should work.  My experience with hickory dictates a wider thinner limbed bow in order to lessen unwanted string follow.

[dposalski]

Thank you all for your input.  I will try with a shorter handle section and keep working the tiller farther out the limbs.  Maybe a thinner handle and then wrapped would work to give enough of a handle.

[okie64]

What kind of glue are you using? I tried to glue a handle on a few years ago with gorilla glue and it popped off. Threw it away and went back to tb3.

[Pat B]

Generally when a handle pops off it is not the glue that is the problem but the handle area is bending. Even if it bends slightly the handle will pop off unless it flexes with the bend. You can stack graduating length of thin wood to build up the handle and it will flex a little or make the riser with thick shoe leather or cork.

[hova]

i heard this before , but it seems contrary to what we do. or at least the reasoning behind using thin slabs opposed to one thick slab.


dont we usually say that laminations make something stronger? so if you can put a couple layers down instead of one , youre stiffening the area of the lamination.


i just always thought of laminations as usually being stronger than plain wood...

i could be completely wrong...

-hov

[dposalski]

I was using TB2.  Gonna take a look at it again and see what I need to do.  I left the handle/grip section almost full width, but the window is where it is cut in.  I wounder if I just layer ip the window with wood, about 3 inches worth and then wrap a soft handle .  That may work well to protect the thin area and if I get it bending right out in the limbs, I should be OK.  Who knows, maybe some contrast in the window area will help the sight picture.  If you are looking down your sight picture, would you expect the background to be light or dark?  Just want to use a wood that wont blend into what you are aiming at.

[hova]

due to focus , you shouldnt even see your shelf. at least i dont. i shoot my bow like i shoot trap and golf. i look where i want my arra to go.


-hov

[7 Lakes]

If your glue is failing and "popping off" sounds a lot like failing, switch to epoxy.  EA 40 Smooth On is the industry standard.  

Is the bow is failing on the glue line?  Tite Bond does not fill voids well, particularly under pressure.  If both pieces mate perfectly and then fail under pressure you are using the wrong glue.

Just one more thought about any glue.  Mating wood surfaces need to be roughed up and match perfectly.  Both mating surfaces need to be free of dust and any oils (finger oil counts).  Use Acetone to degrease.  Butter up both mating surfaces.  Don't try to save a $1 worth of glue here.