Layout trouble....

[NYArrow]

Fellers...

   As some of you know I'm gathering tools/knowledge to make my first attempt here. Just picked up some excellent hickory last night. Perfect grain two boards ' 7x 2"x2.5". I want to save one piece for future backings. To begin though I just want to build a straight hickory. For a layout I'm having trouble. I want a bow that's not terribly wide or too long. I would like 66" with 1.75" tapers. I would also like the bow to have the style of limbs such as Ken75's hic backed MIM. Any ideas on how to layout this type of limb. I can make a pretty close estimate but would rather hear it from someone that has done it themselves.

[okie64]

Are you talkin about this style?

[NYArrow]

Yes...not sure of the term for this style limb though.

[okie64]

Its called holmgaard(not sure if thats the right spelling). Where the limbs get narrower they get thicker at the same time to keep the skinny part of the limb from bending. The working limb on this bow 16" and the skinny part is 12". Its 1.5" wide on the working part of the limb and narrows to 1/2".

[John Scifres]

If it's your first, go with a simpler design.  Make it 68", witha 4" handle and 2" fades.  1-3/4" wide for half the limb tapering to 1/2" nocks.

[Pat B]

I agree with John.
 Holmgaard is a cool style bow but the tiller is different than most other bows. With such a short working section all of the strain is concentrated there so set will be hard to control for a newbie.

[NYArrow]

Ok, will do! Hope to get going this weekend (if work permits)

[okie64]

Good luck and be sure to keep us posted.

[Art B]

This design concretrates to much stress just outside the fades for a retangular limb design with no belly taper. That limb design should show a more rectangular profile istead of circular. A belly taper, side taper or a combination of the two would suit that design better IMHO..........Art

[NYArrow]

Art,

  I'm confused by your post...do you mean this type of "homgaard" in general or the one in the above picture? Also just to clarify terminology to a rookie, can you elaborate on the two tapers. I realize there is a taper from the fades to tips when looking straight at the belly. Also there is a taper from the side view from fades to knocks. What is the proper term to describe each?

[Pat B]

Belly taper and side taper! d;^)

[Art B]

NYArrow, the holmegaard rectangular limb design generally has no belly taper.

A rectangular limb design should show an elliptical braced/drawn profile.

BUT, the Holmegaard design without any limb taper will show a circular braced/drawn profile. This concretrates added stress innerlimb and adds un-needed wood mid-limb.

Cool design, but can be more efficient with some type of limb taper IMO......Art

[okie64]

The bow in the picture above is 9/16" thick at the fades and tapers to 3/8" thick where it gets skinny, then it goes back to 9/16" thick for the last 12 inches. I usually tiller my bows with more belly taper where the limbs are parallel from the frontview. In other words if there is no side taper there is more belly taper. Usually works pretty good for me.

[NYArrow]

Thanks. I definitely plan on attempting this style at some point in the future. I supposed I should begin with a simpler one though. What is the great advantage to these tips? I was told it casts better (faster/further) is this true? Or are the levers just cosmetic?

[deadahead]

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,5129.0.html
This build along should help you.

[okie64]

Some people say these style bows have better cast. I cant tell that much difference in these and any of my other bows. I probably dont have my tips narrow enough though.