Author Topic: Heat treating wood questions answered  (Read 626 times)

Offline eflanders

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Heat treating wood questions answered
« on: January 25, 2011, 07:02:00 PM »
There seems to be quite a bit of confusion regarding heat-treating wood.  One of the things that I believe some are confusing is that there are two common reasons why people heat treat wood.  

The first reason why people would heat treat wood is to form it to a shape.  This can be done with dry (heat gun), moist (steam) or wet (boiling) methods.  For bowyers, all three methods can successfully soften the cells of the wood enough to allow for bending / shaping.  There are advantages and disadvantages to each of these methods.  One rule of thumb for bending wood states that you should use dry heat for dry wood and moist heat for wet or green wood.  But one also must bear in mind other factors like: Material thickness, Wood species and the Degree of bend needed when choosing the most appropriate method to use.  It is also very important to remind everyone that whatever method you choose to use to bend the wood, it is very critical that the core of the material reaches the magical temperature (approx. 140' F) before the bend will maintain in the wood after the clamps have been removed and all of the material has returned to the relative humidity of the environment it is in.  A perfect example of failing to reach the proper core temperature and/or not waiting long enough for the material to return to the relative humidity is when you clamp a piece onto the form, wait till it cools, remove the clamps and the wood cracks and/or springs back close to it's former shape.

The second reason people heat treat wood is to alter / improve some of the natural characteristics of the wood.  Certain wood species can gain shear strength, improve the elasticity and harden with dry heat.  Many of these improvements do not occur if you use moist (steam) or if you boil the wood.  Ash, Junipers, Hickory, Maple, Bamboo all are woods that respond positively to flame tempering / heat treating when done properly.  A good primitive example of flame tempering / heat treating to improve hardness exists with the native American Indians who would heat the tips of their arrows in the fire.  Again, reaching the proper temperature for this process is quite critical for consistency.

I have been asked if one can reheat-treat the wood once it has been treated before.  The answer is Yes if you are trying to re-form the material but No if you are trying to add strength to the material.  I have also been asked if you can boil or steam a piece of wood to form it and then use flame tempering later for hardness.  The answer is Yes but one must be extremely patient to do so successfully.  The potential problem here lies in the time needed for the wood to return to the relative humidity.  If things are rushed, the material will surely crack.

Online Pat B

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Re: Heat treating wood questions answered
« Reply #1 on: January 26, 2011, 12:54:00 AM »
Well put, Eric.
  When I am making corections to the stave or drastic bends I use oil to not only prevent scorching but distribute the heat more evenly and hold the heat longer.
   When I'm adding reflex and performance to a bow I use dry heat without oil and purposfully scorch the wood(belly only)to increase compression strength and stiffening the wood.
  I have heated and reheated wood many times when necessary. It is somewhat detrimental to the wood but if used within reason should be no problems. Any time you heat wood to manipulate it give it plenty of time to rehydrate before stressing it. The amount of time is relative to the amount of heat and the R/H at the time.
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Offline Osagetree

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Re: Heat treating wood questions answered
« Reply #2 on: January 26, 2011, 04:58:00 AM »
Well put guy's!
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Offline broketooth

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Re: Heat treating wood questions answered
« Reply #3 on: January 26, 2011, 06:29:00 AM »
boy , i got a lot to learn. back to the books. ruddy
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Offline ber643

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Re: Heat treating wood questions answered
« Reply #4 on: January 26, 2011, 06:33:00 AM »
Valuable info here, in a handy format, that should come up easily in the search feature in the future - i.e. Heat treating wood.    :thumbsup:
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Offline Art B

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Re: Heat treating wood questions answered
« Reply #5 on: January 26, 2011, 07:41:00 AM »
Good stuff! Art

Offline SEMO_HUNTER

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Re: Heat treating wood questions answered
« Reply #6 on: January 26, 2011, 09:46:00 AM »
All good info.

I haven't been able to use dry heat yet for lack of a proper heat gun, but I have used steam many times with great success. I normally do it late in the evening, then clamp, and leave it till morning. No need to rush things and by leaving it overnight the material has plenty of time to cool properly and almost always retains the shape I want.

My only experience with boiling was with Osage and I didn't like it. Too much of the natural oil in the wood was lost and it became brittle. I vowed to never do that again. Steam works just fine and only loses minimal oil from the wood.
30-45min. has been plenty for steaming a bow blank sized piece of Osage to do the job.

Just sharing what I have witnessed from first hand experiences.
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Offline hova

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Re: Heat treating wood questions answered
« Reply #7 on: January 26, 2011, 09:54:00 AM »
i think they usually recommending shellac when steaming or boiling. i always thought this was to keep the essential oils in the wood...correct me if i am mistaken
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Offline eflanders

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Re: Heat treating wood questions answered
« Reply #8 on: January 26, 2011, 12:51:00 PM »
Thanks for the kind words folks.  I have to admit that I am not a very experienced bowyer yet, but I have plenty of experience in heat treating wood.

Offline formerbutcher

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Re: Heat treating wood questions answered
« Reply #9 on: January 26, 2011, 01:08:00 PM »
Hi Eric, i see where neighbors, let me know if i can ever help you out with anything.

John
It's a great day to be alive !!

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Re: Heat treating wood questions answered
« Reply #10 on: January 26, 2011, 01:27:00 PM »
Hova, I use shellac as a sealer to prevent moisture from entering already dry wood when steaming or boiling. If you steam or boil wet(green) wood you are actually forcing enternal moisture out of the wood and this will assist in the drying process.
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Offline hova

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Re: Heat treating wood questions answered
« Reply #11 on: January 26, 2011, 03:36:00 PM »
:thumbsup:

-hov
ain't got no gas in it...mmmhmmm...

Online Roy from Pa

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Re: Heat treating wood questions answered
« Reply #12 on: January 26, 2011, 06:08:00 PM »
Good stuff guys.

Offline CaptainJ

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Re: Heat treating wood questions answered
« Reply #13 on: January 31, 2011, 10:31:00 PM »
Thanks for the lesson!
Just a question or two if I may:

 
Quote
Originally posted by eflanders:
...it is very critical that the core of the material reaches the magical temperature (approx. 140' F)...
Would baking the entire stave or blank in a warm oven allow us to manipulate the wood as desired rather than using a heat gun? It would seem to me that a 150F oven over a long period of time would heat more evenly and be less dangerous to the wood than a much hotter heat gun.

Could these methods be used to untwist a propeller stave or just for straightening, reflex / re-curving, and such?

Thanks!
CJ

Online Walt Francis

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Re: Heat treating wood questions answered
« Reply #14 on: February 01, 2011, 12:36:00 AM »
I have not tried and entire bow in an oven but it could work, if you have an oven big enough.  The biggest problem I see is unless the entire stave is the same size and density the parts would heat unevenly.  It would be similar to heating with steam, which I have not used too much on bows.  When steaming oak for furniture my best results are when the wood is the same dimension.  Personally, I would not recommend it.  It reminds me of using the microwave to bend/tweak limbs and limb tips about ten years ago, it worked, but not as good as a heat gun and caul.
The broadhead used, regardless of how sharp, is nowhere as important as being able to place it in the correct spot.

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