Author Topic: Glue brands  (Read 652 times)

Offline kountzer0

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Re: Glue brands
« Reply #20 on: February 07, 2011, 02:33:00 PM »
WARNING TEXT WALL:

A few thoughts occur to me from other areas where I've used both working ans static wood:

Weldwood and Urac 185 glues are the same (urea formaldehyde)system.  Let them cure and they are waterproof (can be used below the waterline in wooden boats)...they will fill small gaps.  Awesome woodglues once cured, water clean-up etc.  Use with good ventilation as they will out-gas formaldehyde - even while curing. Most "outdoor" plywood uses this stuff.

TB1/2/3 are all the PVA type glues.  Don't use below waterline is the common recommendation in boatbuilding. 2 major differences are touted between grades: "open time" and water resistance increases with grade, although I seem to have longer working time with TB2 than 3. They are convenient & non-toxic but generally inferior to the Urac types as far as bond strength, gap filling & rigidity.

Epoxies are strong, rigid and waterproof, but messy to clean up etc. and the most expensive in general. They can be "doped" (add fillers) to do almost anything.  They can be the worst to get bubbles out of if mixed in a hurry.  They almost always "blush" to some extent - which leaves a sticky oily feeling residue (amine blush I think) which makes finishes hate to stick to them unless removed.Also need adequate temperature to cure (generally >70F. You can develop a sensitivity (like a rash) if you work with them a lot. Oh and UV will break them down over time.  Even with all the "buts" and "oh by the ways" they are killer if mixed and used right.

Just sharing what I've learned from other resources.  I've built furniture and small wooden boats, so I've used a lot of glue types.  I can't reccomend the polyurethane glues (like the big primate one) since they are generally more expensive than another suitable type - except maybe epoxy but the "rilla is less versatile then the epoxies so I don't skimp when I need that kind of performance, and if I'm gonna don gloves I reach for my epoxies - but that's just me.

These are generalizations based on the "common" knowledge of the material systems - I've used all of them in other projects but actual bowyer's experience should take precedence of course. Sorry...I'm an engineer so I read too much?   :dunno:
Greet every morning with a smile. That way it won’t know what you’re planning to do to it - Brandon Sanderson

Offline eflanders

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Re: Glue brands
« Reply #21 on: February 19, 2011, 05:18:00 PM »
I've used TB III and Urac 185.  I love them both on wood to wood glue ups.  However I prefer the Urac more as it is gap filling, has some more initial tack to it and it has a longer working time.  I make laminated bows and need the additional working time for all of the lams to get glued and placed.  Urac also does not need air to dry so it works real good with banded forms.

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