I have an idea, what do you think?

[J. Holden]

I've been noodeling my next board bow for quite awhile.  It would be red oak, because that's what the wallet can afford.  I'm thinking of cutting a strip off of the board and flipping it end for end and glueing it back on.  I saw someone on here do that with hickory.  I'd also like to add a touch of reflex to it, maybe an inch to an inch and a half, to overcome string follow.  I'm thinking 68" and about 2" wide at the fades.  What do you think?  Did I make sense?

-Jeremy  

[KochNE]

Sounds like a solid plan for red oak.  Could induce the reflex with steam once its roughed out, or glue on reflexed tips, and use linen for the backing to keep it even cheaper/ reduce labor.  Only thing I'd add is to heat treat the belly once it's roughed out close to where you want it (before any gluing is done also).  That will increase its compression strength and help to reduce set even further.

[J. Holden]

Thanks KochNE, I've never heat treated.  That would be learning experience.  How do I know when enough heat is enough?  Thanks.

-Jeremy  

[PEARL DRUMS]

Glue in at least 4" of reflex if you want it relativley straight when your done. Oak takes set badly. Otherwise your on target! If your board is straight grained, I would suggest leaving it one piece. If you do back it, use hickory rather. The thin oak back probably wont take the tension it needs to. Linen would be good as well.

[Art B]

A lot of folks don't realize that most boards/staves have unequal working properties from end to end. That's why a lot a bowyers like to use matching sister billets because of matching properties. So what you're suggesting would do the same thing.

Good plan! Art

[KochNE]

As far as heat treating...  Some heat it to a nice chocolate brown color, others to varying degrees less than that.  Even color change is what you're looking for, to show you the wood has been altered.  Make sure you let it re-hydrate before bending.

My method thus far is best described as "Steady the bow 8" above low gas flame on stove, and see how long before you turn your hard work to charcoal."  Honestly though, I'm getting better every time (paying more attention) and after igniting a boo slat on my last attempt, I got a real nice even temper on my maple recurve today.  

My first completed bow was an un-tempered 1x2 red oak, and it took 2" of just-unstrung set on the top limb, and 1.75" on the bottom.  With yours a full 1/2" wider than mine and heat tempering, 1"  or less set is entirely do-able.  Don't let it hinge, and don't pull past your target draw weight or length.

[J. Holden]

Thanks Koch.  So I get the idea of how to heat temper.  But why?  What does the heat do to the wood?  And what or how do I know when it's re-hydrated?

-Jeremy  

[vanillabear?]

[J. Holden]

Wow, thanks for the heads up.  Great info.  If, yeah right, when I start this project I'll try and post some pics.  We'll see how it turns out.

-Jeremy  

[hova]

i have yet to get my saw goin , but i plan on using hickory for all my backing needs. i figure if i get 3 slats out of a 3/4 thick piece,  i will still have 3x as much as i would need to do something with white oak as a belly...


my tip is use white oak instead of red oak. the red around here is just garbage (at lowes etc) , and white oak is cheaper at the sawmill...

-hov

[NYArrow]

Great idea to cut, flip and back it. I never thought of or have seen that on here. Red Oak seems like a good cheap wood to learn on.

[Aznboi3644]

I wouldn't reflex it 4"..too much.  1-1.5" reflex is just fine.  4" would overstress the belly too much and make it even slower.

Oak doesn't take bad set...bad tillering causes bad set.

Its about the design and tillering.

with 2" wide till mid limb you should have no problem making a durable low set bow.