First bow, have a question

[TimB]

So I took the plunge and decided to build a bow. I elected to follow the instructions at  http://poorfolkbows.com/index.html  for the red oak board bow. I'm sure you guys have seen this website before. Anyway, my question is this: Where should the arrow shelf be? should it be a certain distance from the center? This information was not in the build-along.

I've only just glued up the riser today, so it will be a few days before I need to cut the arrow shelf.

Any help appreciated,
TimB

[D]

Ive read on here that they are and inch about center or somewhere around there.  I'm nowhere near an expert or probably even a good bowyer and there is people on here that can give you a better answer than me but I make the throat of the grip the center and just go from there.  Just depends on how close to your hand you want to shoot.  The first time I shot my predator the feather on the arrow laid the top of my hand open so needless to say I like a little bit more of a shelf. hahaha  But going to left wing fixed that problem.

[Stiks-n-Strings]

I put mine about 1 to 1.5" above center

[PEARL DRUMS]

I cut mine in 1.75" above center. I use shorter than normal risers and that only allows me to go so far up. Some cut them in at 2", some at 1.5". Some people simply grip the bow where it feels good and draw a line above thier knuckle and cut in in there. Your nock point will make up the diff for you. Just be sure tiller to your shooting style, either 3 under or split.

[George Tsoukalas]

My arrow pass is 1.25 in above center. I make it 1 inch if I feel I need to strengthen the bottom limb  a bit. Jawge

[SEMO_HUNTER]

I put the crotch of my hand at dead center of the bow and my cut out (if there is one) goes directly above that so probably around an inch or so just above center. On bows that I shoot off the top of my knuckle it's just barely above center, right on top of the leather grip actually.

[Art B]

Everyone's type grip/hand placement can vary a little Tim, but for a straight back handle which is typical of longbows, commonly 1 1/2" above center is the norm......Art

[TimB]

Thanks for the replies. I gather from all of the different answers that anywhere from one inch to two inches is alright. I think I will use Semo's method and see that it is at least an inch above center.

[UnderControl16]

I too also put the center of the bow as my pinch spot on the bow and then if i'm cutting a shelf it's about an inch above center and the nock point about a half an inch above center.

[aric]

1and 3/8ths above center

[vanillabear?]

[TimB]

Alright, so I have another question. I figured I would just use this thread instead of starting another.

Anyway, I used the drywall tape backing just like in the build along. The thing is, it's ugly and surprisingly difficult to work with. For the next bow, I'm wondering about using canvas backing. You see I already have a bunch of un-used canvas drop cloths that aren't being used for anything and I could certainly get a long enough piece out of one of those. Any thoughts on canvas backing?

[formerbutcher]

Tim the canvas will work, but if it was me i would look for some silk from a thrift store, an old tie or shirt. Silk will be muck lighter for you.

[vanillabear?]

[TimB]

Alrighty, I guess I will try silk for the next bow. Thanks guys.

A little update, the first bow is pretty much done now. It just needs a finish and I'm leaning toward tru-oil. I shot the bow a little and it does great. I made it light, around 35# because all I planned to do with it was a little recreational target practice. Who needs a 50# monster to shoot hay bales?  

Thanks again for the advice and I'm sure I'll be back with more questions later.

[kountzer0]

Glad it's working out for you.

I guess I'll be first: "pics please!"

We like eye candy.  It helps train noobs like me to see good bows bending.    

At least part of this process seems to be training the  eyes  as well as the hand with tools, feel etc - to me at least.

Anyhow - welcome!