Need some advice

[StoneAK]

If I am doing a all wood reflex design its a hickory backing on a red elm core when doing the glue up should I leave everything at full thickness then put it in the form to cure or should I thin out the limbs then do the glue up in the form? and one more question does smooth on glue come apart with steam? sorry to seem so confusing

[Roy from Pa]

I would draw my bow pattern on the back of the bow, glue it up, then cut it out. Why would you want to use steam on a glued up bow?

[StoneAK]

I wasn't going to I just thought maybe if I ever had to fix a twist or something it was more for my own knowledge than anything.
Roy when you do your glue up do you use a form with the air hose in the bow oven?

[Roy from Pa]

I don't make many bows from lams in a form, but going to start to do it more. Yes I use the fire hose method and put the form in a hot box.

Remember this Lester. ( Wet wood wet heat, dry wood dry heat. )

[StoneAK]

Thanks roy

[fujimo]

for my laminated wood bows, i use a caul and rubber bands and urac glue- that way i can make a bunch of different shapes/cauls for a lot less cost and work than an airhose form.
but i am about to build my first airhose form now for my first glass bow- from binghams.
kenny- has a good form build on his home page.

[Pat B]

When making a backed bow I like to get the belly(core) piece bending smoothly and evenly at floor tiller before glue up. This will insure smooth, evenly bending reflexed limbs after glue up and before tillering.