Tillering first osage bow???

[snag]

It is at 51#@20" right now. I am hoping to hit around 55+#@28".  The right limb is the upper limb and the left is the lower. It is a 64" bow. On the right limb there is a spot that looks like it is starting to develop a hinge mid limb. That is a spot that has some pin knots.
 
It is wider there but is about the same thickness as the area above and below it.
 

Should I do some scraping on the right limb from the fade to mid limb and then some from lower/mid to 4"-6" short of the tip? If this is your recommendation--as the right limb flexes more than the left limb should I do full length scrapes on the left limb in order to keep up with the right limb in how it flexes? Hope that makes sense...?    :confused:     Thanks, David

Also thought I'd try a slight shelf on this bow.
Not done sculpting it though. Also have a rotted knot hole to fill. It doesn't go through the handle all the way. But still thought I'd fill it with a mixture of Titebond and fine osage dust from sanding it.
 

[PEARL DRUMS]

You nailed it. Your upper needs to be worked on after mid limb. Do you use a gizmo? You better! Your looking very good other than that. Nice work. Sit a hard, round piece of rubber underneath your grip right were your hand will be, that will allow the bow to teter. You may be suprised where your tips land after you try it.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

It looks like your right limb is quite a bit longer than the left? Don't know by how much.
There is a slight hingy spot starting to develop mid limb just above where the black line intersects on the right limb.
I agree with Pearl on the gizmo, whether you have a hard spot that doesn't want to bend it will still show you where you need to remove material.
Left limb looks nice.

 

 At this point I would switch over to a palm sander rather than use the scraper myself JMO.
If you want nice even limbs that are uniform without the ridges that a scraper can leave, use a palm sander it's my best friend when tillering next to Mr. Gizmo.

Hope the photo edit helps.

[snag]

Semo, thanks! Hoping you might see this and add your graphics. I forgot about the palm sander tip. I'll get it out. That and the gizmo will get me to where I need to be hopefully.
Thanks guys, David

[PEARL DRUMS]

Go slow David. The last few pounds come VERY fast. I suggest stopping 3-5#'s heavy to allow shoot in and sanding. Your upper limb will land lower than your lower limb because of the block your handle section sits on, your hand will allow it to rock evenly. Use a hard tube or broom handle section to allow it to rock to finish your tiller out.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Don't sand away in any one spot too long with the palm sander cause it takes off more than you think. I use a 150 grit on mine then switch over to a lighter grit like 180 or 200 further on down through the tillering process when I don't need to take much off at all. When you get it bending nice and even throughout, just work your limb from tip to fade to take it down evenly and stop just above  your target wt. like Pearl said. Better to stop too soon than to go too far.
Check it often in between sanding sessions and take it easy and slow. The weight does drop fairly quick the closer you get and it doesn't take much to make a big difference.

[red hill]

Looking pretty good, David. Good work.
Stan

[oneraindog]

what is a gizmo?

[PEARL DRUMS]

Search "Eric's Gizmo" here for pics. Its basically a tool to help you tiller a bow evenly. It marks flat spots that need wood removed to bend even with the rest of the limb. Very simple and very effective.

[Roy from Pa]

Link to GIZMO..

 http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000075

[snag]

I got the Gizmo out this morning and did a little more work on the fades and some areas of the limbs. The Gizmo really helps except when you get near the fades and handle.