Help with a layout

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

Posts: 24


     How do you???
« on: Today at 01:27:12 PM »    

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Hey TG bowyers-
I am currently at a stand still with my first osage bow because I am waiting on a stringer. Since I am itching to continue making a bow I figured I would start another one. I would like to make a long bow style with a shelf cut just ever so slightly into the handle. I would like it to be 64-66 inches TTT and around 55-60# @28 inches.

Any ideas on the layout of this bow??? Such as limb width and taper

Thanks guys you all rock.... Justin

[Art B]

Is this another Osage Bow Justin? What's your draw length? What's the stave's side profile look like (i.e. straight, reflexed, or deflexed )?Art

[bowhntineverythingnh03743]

I would like the profile to be somewhat reflex/deflex... Semo-Hunter sent me a copy of his traveling caul. My draw length is just under 28 inches. These billets are super straight.
Any help Art would be appreciated

[Art B]

About the sweetest design I've used for Osage of that length is a straight glue-up right out of the handle and then flip the tips from mid-limb to tips.

Limb width at fades is 1 1/2" for about 6", then a straight taper to 1/2" tips.

Belly taper, from fades to mid-limb 1/16". Then carry the same thickness to tips.

Lay out a 5" handle dead center of the bow. From center of the handle mark up 1 1/2" for the arrow shelf. Thats for a medium grip. That's leaves 1" of handle above the shelf to reinforce the window and will leave you with a 4" handle. Both fades and both limbs will be of equal lengths.

Note: center of your splice will not be the center of your handle with this layout. You will have to mark up 1/2" from the center of the splice for the center of the handle so that some type of grip material will cover the splice. Even simpler, just cut the upper limb/billet 1" longer than the lower...Art

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Yep, what Art said.

That caul design will put reflex in the tips for about the last 1/3 but you also end up with about 2" of deflex. I don't know how much that will vary the design that Art mentioned, but it is more challenging to tiller.

I like using the same basic layout that Art mentioned with a straight taper from handle width of 1 1/4" down to 1/2" at the tips. My next one may be even skinnier? I'm thinking the last 12" or so taking it down a bit more, dunno yet.

I think either way you will have a shooter Justin, just go with what feels right and step outside your comfort zone, but listen to Art he knows some stuff. Especially with working a set of billets.