couple q's for everyone...

[hova]

Ok. This is version #3 . I just cant get my thoughts down that great today.


I came across this link while looking for a SG of arborvitae cause my new job has a bunch of it.
   Ohio woods  
it shows the sg at .32 which is lower than basswood , so i would say the arborvitae is out , other than handle practice ,etc.

then i got to looking on the list. i always look to see what they say about silver maple cause my mother has 3  giant silvers in her backyard. just begging to be "trimmed"...

this book shows the sg of silver maple at .62. if you take a look , they show silver maple above some  of the better bow woods. mulberry , hackberry , some ash , and RED OAK.... then you look and sugar maple (hard maple) is only at .65sg ... so what gives. i know different woods have different qualities , and the moe is not listed for a lot of woods , but i was thinking that maybe arborvitae might make a decent kids longbow , or 10foot adult longbow...


i got to thinking then , of my old man. hes got bad vertebrae in his neck and back , and he gave me his compound years ago cause he just couldnt do it anymore. and i know he misses shooting a bow. it was his preferred method of taking deer since he bought the whitetail hunter he gave me.probably in the 70's .

hes getting older now , and i was thinking of making him something he can fling some arra's with. im not sure of his draw weight , but i am looking for a design that would be light enough to not wrench someone , say 25-30# , but heavy enough to stick an arrow into a squirrel or bunny or bird without too much worry.

im pretty sure i would make him up some medium-light arrows with razor sharp points (the broadheads on the alum's that came with his WH are still razor sharp all these years later).

i know im scatterbrained and this might not make sense , but would a light long bow be easier to pull than a different bow while retaining the energy in the limbs?

i guess what im asking is , is there a way to lower draw weight while not losing much in the way of kinetic energy? does a r/d design allow the bow to do this? My other idea was something like making a light 25# molle , with flipped tips , and running him 5/16 barrel tapered arrows with a bit heavy point.

the compound is setup for a 28" draw, so im figuring his trad draw at 26" . maybe even 24 if he would be using a release (which he probably would).


let me know what your opinion is...id love to get him in the woods this fall with something full of mojo. we have gone hunting for years now and have never  shared a fresh meal from nature. id love to get this mojo going into some hickory i think. i know it would be a very ...dare i say "dainty" bow? i mean the dimensions i have in my head for hickory would be about 1.5 wide at the fades , to .5" at the start of the molle , to 3/8 at the tip. flipped maybe 5" in from the tip , with about 2" of rise at the tip. hes less than 6' tall , so i was figuring on somewhere right around 6' long with about a 10" handle/fade area.

lemme know , my boy just came out of his playoom and said "c'mere daaaaaady!" so im off


-hov

[Dick in Seattle]

hov -  you just walked right into my office        This is exactly how I got into building and is primarily the kind of building I do... very light draw bows with the emphasis on easy draw rather than loading for speed.   Light weight as well.  I have some medical issues that made this a vital consideration for me and I've passed on bows to a number of people with these kinds of needs.

My immediate recommendation would be straight longbow, and keep it long.   I shoot 66" with a 24" draw.   Anyone with a longer draw go 68 - 70.   Matter of fact I am presently gathering materials to make a form for LB's to 76".  

I try to keep my "special needs" bows between 20 and 30 pounds draw.   I shoot light alum. arrows from them and have no problem using them for 3D on non-compound courses.     I wouldn't hesitate to take intelligent shots at small game with these bows, but would go to 35 to 40 for deer.   Wouldn't hesitate on javelina with 30#, again, close shots.

For bow material for a light physical weight and draw weight, I like all boo, red cedar/lamboo core  or all cherry.   This past winter I built a truly all boo bow... even the riser is laminated up out of lamboo.  Folks are amazed when they pick it up.

Check out my gallery for ideas, or email me direct:

[email protected]

Better yet, come on out and we'll build your dad a bow together.

[hova]

thanks for the reply dick. i figured you'd chime in , and i was really hopuing for your input. i know you have to shoot low pound to be able to shoot , and this is where i feel my father is.  he pushed himself too far for way too long.


my father instilled in me that taking out the heart or lungs of an animal will stop them much cleaner and faster than any other legitimate shot. so im not worried at all that he couldnt sit still long enough to get a deer with a knife , so i trust his judgement on his shots. he wouldnt take a chance at injuring an animal. but i guaruntee you , within a couple years if he can get out in the woods with this bow , he would get a deer within 10 yards...and most likely get a doule lung/heart pass through.


its funny you say to come out. the wife lived north of tacoma for a while , and loved it , and i have always wanted to go west. i have that urge in me to see the pacific from my front porch...


im thinking boo wouldnt be bad , but unless i use flooring for a core , natural boo back , and something along the lines of maybe some cherry...but i dont really do lams or have the setup just yet to do so.

like i said though im unsure of his draw weight so i think i might whip up something light for him to putts with. he used a weather rest on his compound , and i had an idea after i saw a "feather rest" but wasnt sure if it worked the same. im thinking a longbow , perhaps a sapling bow would be good. cherry...call it 35# @ 28" , to give him some therapeutic value ,  something to work up to , and have available if necessary.

ok thanks for some insight dick. im off to see about where to start looking for a 4" x6' cherry tree.  


one more for you dick , does your signature handle relieve any stress or help in any way , or is it just something you like , and stick with?

thanks
hov

[Dick in Seattle]

you can always get lams from Kenny.  I could run them for you, but I"m sure Kenny does it better.   Sounds like you're on the right track.

As to tag lines, I use a different one on a builder's list I'm on:  "The shop door is open and the coffee is on!"     but I like this one a lot, too.    It says something to me, but I also keep hoping it gets through to some others.   I never saw a group that over analyzed stuff like archers.   You'd think world peace depending on what thread was in your string or whether you used beaver fur or poodle whiskers for silencers.   Just shoot the dang bow!

[hova]

i meant your signature set back bow handle...lol..


im going to try a cherry stave or board bow , possibly backed by the hickory taper that was sent to me. its iirc .040 to .018 at the tips. im figuring a smidge of cherry , and something to make a nice smooth bulbous handle , and he'll be good to go.


-hov

[Grey Taylor]

Poodle whiskers... hah! I wouldn't be surprised.
 
"But I get an extra 3/4 fps."

Guy

[Dick in Seattle]

hov...   Oh.. sorry about that.   I suspect you're referring to "Old Phartt's Archery".     I found that amusing and liked it.   Used it on my earlier bows.  Even worked up a logo, but it was for my hobby activity and web site promoting shooting light.  Folks assumed from the name that I was a professional bowyer offering my services.   I ran into trouble over it and have stopped using it, which is a shame, because I had a nice banner made to put up to put by my tent at shoots, thinking to just get folks to come by to talk about shooting light bows and to get a chance to show off my work.   Professional is not a place I want to go, been there and done that as a riflesmith and as a wood carver.  Lot like work!   Plus, in my present situation, I don't know when I'll be up to working and when not, so I'm pretty careful not to over extend...

[hova]

im sorry , i mus have you confused . i thought you were the one who adored the reversed grip lightweight hill bows...


-hov

[Dick in Seattle]

I think you got me right... I do adore reverse grip light Hills... I also adore straight grip light Hills...    If I could draw them, I'd enjoy moderate weight Hills, like about 45#.    I also like Hill styles with no shelf...   Hmm... come to think of it, I guess I just like Hill style bows!

[hova]

nothin wrong with that. i thought for some reason that was your doing. i thought maybe it allowed you a little different dynamics where the bow itself is concerned...

-hov