Author Topic: Starting a recurve  (Read 312 times)

Offline TheBronzeAge

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Starting a recurve
« on: July 06, 2011, 09:28:00 PM »
A while ago a friend of mine gave me a half-finished recurve to work with.  I've never done a recurve and unlike him I don't have the setup to do laminate bows.  Today I put the recurve on the tillering tree, pulled it a bit to see where I needed to scrape wood, and realized I don't really have a clue how to tiller a recurve.  What do I look for?  Symmetry, I assume, but are the rules about which parts of the limb do the most bending the same as for a non-recurved bow (adjusted for the initial bend, of course)?

Offline Art B

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Re: Starting a recurve
« Reply #1 on: July 07, 2011, 07:59:00 AM »
How 'bout a little more info please.

What materials was used in the construction of the bow? Back (pyramid or retangular) and side profile (straight/reflexed/deflexed)?

It would also help to know how long your bow is. And your intended draw length/weight.......Art

Online Pat B

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Re: Starting a recurve
« Reply #2 on: July 07, 2011, 10:24:00 AM »
Pics are very helpful in a situation like this plus answering Art's questions.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
TGMM Family of the Bow

Offline TheBronzeAge

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Re: Starting a recurve
« Reply #3 on: July 08, 2011, 10:49:00 AM »
The back is bamboo and the design is rectangular.  It's 68" inches and I'd like it to draw 45# at 28".
Pictures below.
Without any pull on the tillering rope:
   
Slight pull:
     
More pull:
   

Offline Art B

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Re: Starting a recurve
« Reply #4 on: July 08, 2011, 12:19:00 PM »
That's a R/D design rather than a recurve design. Is it light enough to get a regular string on yet? Left limb looks like it could do with a bit of catching up with the right limb first though. Appears the section out from the right tip is getting a little light with the long string. It'll become more pronounced when you change strings.

Remember, when using a long tillering string like you're using now, near handle will appear bending more than it should and the tips stiffer than normal. That'll change when you go to a short string because of the differences in the string angles. In other words, less bend near handle and more bend outer limb.

I think what you're looking for as far as a finished drawn profile (with a regular string) is a circular center to mid-limbs and straight from there to the tips.

Just work it slow and easy and put up plently of pics and I'm sure the R/D specialist can work you through it. Good luck.....Art

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