A bit of a problem - take down recurve

[Crooked Stic]

Limit the glue lines? I thought laminating was always stronger. It has got to be done right though.

[Mike Mecredy]

So, it's stronger with glue joints than a solid peice of hardwood without glue joints?

[Bradford]

That is the perception.  I work in the flooring business, and engineered wood (laminated) is stronger than pure hard wood.  Reason being that the layers give strength to the overall board.. less twist and warpage.  

That being said, the laminations do have to be done right with the right glue.... flooring or bows.  And that would go for I-Beams in bows.. not the decorations in front or back.

I am sure there are test done out on this subject.  Would be interesting to see what results are.

[strungstick]

With that light of poundage I'd fill it with a good CA glue like ZAP or Hot stuff.  Get the water thin style and put some in the gap prior to clamping then continue to apply around the area until the wood stops taking it in.  The glue will fill the gap and pores and strengthen the walnut.  I've had a similar problem, or 2, on thin accent stripes and they have never failed yet.

[jess stuart]

I have chosen to never build another riser without at least one strip of glass running along the back of the riser.  I have never had a riser crack or fail since.  It is pretty cheap insurance.

[wildbill001]

Not an expert by any means but looks to me like you could drill and dowel it.  Use a contrasting hardwood and make it an accent?

Bill

[Troy Breeding]

Cracks like that is the reason I will not build a bow without glassing the back of the riser. I too had a walnut riser crack on the back of the riser in the grip. Since then I always make a form and glue glass to the back of the riser. Best to be safe than sorry.

Troy

[critter69]

Could you dowell it with a soild fiberglass dowell(old c/b antenna,tent pole)or a piece of all thread( bolt with head cut off) then over lay the hole with thin maple and walnut.