Osage Orange too thin for a bow?

[costa_ct]

Hi guys!
I traded 2 Dacron spools on a bow stave (Osage), but in the package was just a branch, 3 cm diameter on an end and 4 cm on the other end, 1.80 meter length. But the real problem is not its dimensions, but the shape. It is not straight at all and my effort to straighten it failed.
Could somebody, please, tell me if I should go on trying to make a bow from this wood?
 http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff468/ArrowsMaker/OSAGE%20ORANGE/osage2.jpg
 http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff468/ArrowsMaker/OSAGE%20ORANGE/osage1.jpg

The ruler is in centimeters.
 http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff468/ArrowsMaker/OSAGE%20ORANGE/IMG_8791.jpg
 http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff468/ArrowsMaker/OSAGE%20ORANGE/IMG_8790.jpg

[Art B]

You need to reduce the stave to a roughed-out bow and then do your straightening. That stave would be a good one to decrown down to the heartwood. Do you know if the stave is seasoned or green? If seasoned, you can stream or heat straighten after you rought it out. If green, rough out, varnish the entire bow, and put back for 6-12 months. Or longer........Art

[costa_ct]

Thank you for your kindness, Art!
The guy told me he cut the branch in June, this year, and kept it in an appropriate place for seasoning, but I'm not sure if I should take his word for granted. So I supposed it's not seasoned.

You say I have to take out the bark. And the sap wood too?
Then rough out and... varnish completely? Forgive me for my questions in case they are stupid but... will the wood be able to cure if varnished? Or maybe it's my poor English to blame. You mean smoothing the surface or coating it with polish?
And the straightening must be done only when the wood is properly seasoned, ok? Not when it's green yet.
From the pictures, do you think it's enough heart wood for a bow? And what could be a recommended shape or type of bow in this case?
Once again, thanks a lot!
Constantin

[KellyG]

Costa,
You only have to varnish the back and ends, to keep it from checking. If you decrown it like Art suggest I think you have to back it. I would say it is still green. Once you get it to a rough bow shape you can strap it or clamp it to a caul and as it dries it will take that shape for the most part. Then just make minor adjustments as need once it is seasoned. I am no expert just repeating what I have read on here an in books. I hope art or some of the others pop back on here to correct where I might be wrong.
good luck,
Kelly

[Art B]

I doubt if you'll have enough heartwood left if you take all the sapwood off. I would remove the bark, then pick a side for the back (heart of the stave is off-centered, I would choose the thinnest ringed side for the back), flatten it down to the heartwood, then chase the first heartwood ring the full length of the stave. That's called decrowning. Here, part of the sapwood remains as the bow's back, but still you're following one continuous ring from end to end.

If still green, and with the bark removed, the sapwood will start checking fairly quickly. Keep things varnished up to prevent this when you're not working on your bow. And yes, the stave will dry with a coat of varnish/glue/wax/shellac or whatever else you choose to use.

You goal at this point should be, remove the bark, flatten the back and start roughing the bow out. Get the roughed out bow to where it's limbs are bending a little, coat the entire thing and lay it back for drying/seasoning.

Probably need to make a bending/working handle bow of some sort but first things first.....Art

[PEARL DRUMS]

Thats too small for much good in my mind.

[Art B]

That's all he's got to work with Pearly. Being from Romania, ain't like he can just run out and cut some more. If nothing else, he can gain a little experience here........Art

[costa_ct]

Would it make any help if I boiled the wood after removing the bark and kept it clamped for months to straighten? Or there is the risk to damage it by changing the characteristics?

[DVSHUNTER]

I'd try for a decrowned back on that bow, or possibly back it with another piece of wood like hickory or bamboo. It doesn't take much osage to make a bow. 70lbs may be out of reach but lower poundage may work. I would definitely give it a shot after you season it though.

[Pat B]

I would saw it down the middle lengthwise then bind it back together with spacers between the two halves for air flow. I have one that has been drying for 1 1/2 years.  After a while I stripped the bark off and shellaced the back, sapwood et al. I made one bow similar to this a few years ago that pulls 53#@26".

[Osagetree]

Mr. Tar, here are some motivational pictures for you of the "Twisted Sisters". They are mostly white wood osage selfbows. They were one limb at one time just like yours. Peel the bark and that is your backing, leave some heartwood on the belly for compression and shape and tiller your two bows!
You can use dry heat to take out the kinks you don't want after you get it floor tillered.
Can't remember the exact weight of these but it was upper 40#'s or Lower 50#'s

 

You can still see the bark on the handle I left in the non working section of the bows.

 

Heartwood bellies
 

 

Bark @ handle
 

Tiller pic
 [
unbraced
 


Be sure and keep us posted!!!!

[broketooth]

joe, if i didnt know any better, i would swear those were yew sapling bows. the look great.something im learning about building bows, is learning to think outside the box.  rv

[Osagetree]

Nope Ruddy, osage limb.....

[Pat B]

Osage limbs and suckers make great bows!!!

[costa_ct]

Wonderful, Osagetree!
My intention is to make a bow around 40 lbs, still, do you think I have enough wood in those 3.5 centimeters?
And I suppose I need to use some extra wood for the handle(s).
What was the diameter of your wood when you started to work it? I mean the small one.

Thank you all guys for your help!

[Osagetree]

here is the whole story
  http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=003027;p=1  

guess it was 4 or 5" but you cold just decrown your stick and that would be the belly side of your bow. Then, peel the bark for the back and I am sure you have atleast enough for one good bow

[costa_ct]

Nice story!
I have to admit that your words gave me a reason to try doing that bow. In fact in case I fail, I will at least gain experience