Red Oak board bow V.2.0 almost done

[DelawareDave]

Well here it is v.2.0 my second bow almost done,  just need some final sanding and to shape the nocks.  It ended up 52 lbs. @ 28" and 67" nock to nock.  Its backed with 6oz. fiberglass fabric and epoxy.  Two questions I have for some of the experienced bowyers are about the epoxy finish and the string.  First in the epoxy and fiberglass there is threes small spots that got dinged from junk in the rag i used in the vis jaws, turning the fiberglass white.  Is there anything i can use like superglue to turn the white spots clear before i polyurethane it, or do i have to sand them down and re-fiberglass them?  Then the bow string, its made of B50 dacron, will it hurt the bow if i leave it strung (braced) for a day or two to stretch the string?

 

[Roy from Pa]

Never leave a wooden bow braced for a long time, unless you are shooting or hunting with it, but never for a day or two.. Just shoot the bow about 40 to 50 times and the string will be stretched all it's gonna stretch.

[Cuban Missile]

That red oak will take some set if you leave it strung for a long time.

[DelawareDave]

Thanks, that's what I figured but thought I would ask  

[ordcorpdw]

What's the thickness of your limbs?

[DelawareDave]

0.440" to o.460" depending on where you measure    and after final sanding and shooting about 200 times the draw is 47 lbs. @ 28"

[ordcorpdw]

Wow thank you exactly the info I needed. Thanks. Very cool bow!

[Inspector12]

Nice Dave, I am doing my first red oak bow build as well.  I was looking at the arrow self an was wondering if you could provide the basic measurements of your handle and distance fade to fade.  If you could post a pic or two of the belly I would like to see them.  Also are you shooting wood or other arrow shafts with it?  Looks great!

[DelawareDave]

Inspector12: thanks for the complement, I'll try to get a pic of the belly and a close up of the handle with a tape measure or something for scale tomorrow.  The basic measurements for the handle is 10" from end of fad to end of fad and a 6" in handle area.  In hind sight I have really big hands and would of like to add another inch to the handle area, i actually grinded the one side of the the handle farther into the fade to fit my big hand into...  

[Eric Krewson]

Almost everyone who shoots a recurve wants to make their first self bow with a recurve style handle, myself included. The bad news is your bow may break at the sight window over time because you didn't leave enough wood to support the limbs.

My first shooter was an osage bow with a deeply cut out sight window to make it center shot. It held up for a month or two then "POW", it broke almost in two at my cut out.

Red oak isn't to stout to begin with so you may have a problem in this area.

Your craftsman ship is top notch, good luck on #3 (once the bug bites you you can't stop making bows).

[DelawareDave]

Eric: thanks for the pointer there i actually had that same fear after i already started shapping, luckly my handel was almost two inches thick so left almost that full deapth around the  cut out, that and its hard to tell from the angle but its not actually cut all the way on center.  its more like 2/3's on center     But anyway we will see how long it lives,  if it breaks, its just another reason to start a new bow right?.....  

[DelawareDave]

Inspector12: sorry it took me a few days to get these up, but I've been really busy lately    here is a close up of the belly and handle with a measuring tape next to it.

 

 

[Inspector12]

That is perfect, I will contemplate your design after I finish the floor tiller.  I guess if it does break I will just start over.  Good work!  Thanks for posting these pics.

Chuck