Linseed oil finish

[rnickl]

I finished some shafts with linseed oil for the first time and I'm not liking the results.  They've been stored in the warm house for over 2 weeks now and still have a tacky soft feel.  Despite the soft finish I took them out to the range the other day and ended up scraping big chunks hay of the shafts with my fingernail after near every shot.  It was also very tough to pull them out on closer targets when they penetrated deeper.

Is this just the nature of linseed oil or is it just not drying properly for some reason?  The house has been in the mid to upper 60's (F) for the last few weeks and humidity is low and they were dipped once and wiped off with a brush on the way out.  Temps should be good for drying in a reasonable time and the coat of oil wasn't excessively heavy.

I guess while we're on the topic, what is your folks favorite finish for shafts?  The only thing I've used before this was varnish.  It seemed to work fine and didn't plan on changing but, I had run out and figured I'd deviate and experiment.

Cheers,
Rick

[JamesV]

wipe on polly is what I use.

[okie64]

I've used spray-on poly, tung oil, tru oil and mink oil. I guess I like mink oil the best, it has no odor and seems to repel water really good.

[Grey Taylor]

Although you state that the coat of linseed oil wasn't excessively heavy, I suspect that it was too heavy.
Oils like linseed oil and tung oil need to be applied rather lightly, allowed to soak for a short time, and then completely wiped off. If too much oil is left on it gets soft, tacky, and doesn't harden properly. If you soften what's on there now you can wipe it off and begin again. It can probably be softened with another application of linseed oil or acetone or lacquer thinner.

Personally, I use gasket lacquer but polyurethane is easily available at the local stores and it works great. Spar varnish is another good one.

Guy

[Tom Leemans]

I've seen a finish of linseed oil and cut shellac that looks and feels nice. Don't cook it in the house though!

[Shakes.602]

I use MinWax Poly Dip Process..... No Problems Thus Far!! Usually 2 Dip & Drip Sessions with some Watered Down (To Suit) Poly, and they are Good to Go!! Good Luck!!

[rnickl]

Thanks for the input all and thanks for the application tips Grey.  I'll give the acetone a shot and see if I can get these shafts back into shape.

[rainman]

Gum turpentine is what you cut Linseed Oil with.  I would not recomment this finish for arrows it is not very tough unless you get pure Linseed Oil from an art store.  The Linseed Oil you get at hardware stores has a lot of additives and is not truly boiled.  Same problem with most Tung Oil.  If you can find the pure Oils that has been boiled it will make a better finish.

[fish n chicks]

You will never be happier with your arrows than when you learn about gasket laquer. Get that and the Eco dipper from 3 rivers and you'll have ready to shoot shafts the night you dip em. By the time the opposite end of the shaft you started is out of the dipper, your starting end is dry already. Unreal. Save the oil for furniture.

[Roy from Pa]

Gasket Lacquer is great stuff, but it will get ya higher than a kite in a wind storm, I know:) Use outside or in a well ventilated area.

But if ya want a good buzz do like I did once. Middle of February, wood burner going in the basement, beer is cold, and I'm dippen arrows in the basement.. Yee Haw, Honey ya wanna come down here and help me up the steps please? LOL