I have found that underlays help not only keep a tip static, but keep it stable from lateral movement. Also, if you happen to pop a splinter while bending them, you can always correct the error by thinning the tip and sandwiching the area beneath an underlay. Here's some pictures:
Also, I'm kind of a "one trick dog." I like to use the pyramid design as much as possible, adapting it for the particular tendencies of the bow being built (short, long, recurved, reflexed, etc.). Below is a 62" static tipped osage bow I built using a straight pyramid design that, when all was said an done, took about 1.25" of set at a 28" draw, but didn't follow the string. I go SLOW in the tillering and get it bending to about four inches shy of the intended draw length. That also gives me a good idea of what the final draw weight will be. (That is, I plot it out on a force-draw curve and then assume it will loose 5#-8# in finishing/shooting in, but gain at least that much back when I bend the tips.) Then I heat treat the belly into a gentle reflex, bending the tips, and retiller out to the intended draw length and bow hand grip (i.e. low heel, high heel, etc.). I find this method to be accurate, easy to replicate, and a fast shooter. The laminate and/or unlayed tips really allow you to keep them narrow with suffering from lateral twisting. Hope that all helps!
Topic: Static tip questions..... (Read 300 times)
