Backing Hickory Selfbow

[Kyle Patterson]

Ok, so i started on a hickory stave the other day, it had some bug marks in the "back" of the stave, so, being a newbie i attempted to chase a ring down below the bug marks. I have since learned that you dont need to chase a ring on hickory because of the interlocking grain. If you look at the end grain on the stave i have violated a few rings, and im starting to doubt whether this bow will hold together. Anyways, I am at floor tiller now, and want to know if there is a reasonable chance of saving this bow it i back it? and what would you back it with? Thanks for the help!

Kyle

[Art B]

Sometimes you have to go ahead and build the bow Kyle. Not even a good backing is fool-proof. Bug markings in hickory is disturbing though.

[Kyle Patterson]

ok, so you suggest just letting loose and seeing if she makes it? I honestly dont know, I dont want to blow it up, but i have a feeling shes headed that way. Oh well, see how it goes and if it does blow, chalk it up to learning experience

[Pat B]

If you don't want a backed bow you can use a temporary backing of heavy paper, cloth or even rawehide until your tillering is done then rewmove it. If you don't mind a backing either of the above should be enough to help hold the bow together.
 Like Art said not even a good backing is fool proof!

[Art B]

Nylon strapping tape works exceptional well as a temporary backing Pat. One layer only. I've used as much as three layers but found out that it'll cost you 5# of bow weight once removed.

[Kyle Patterson]

Well, it busted. I tried to go on with no backing and everything was looking great. Got it to 18", looked nice, pulled some more for 19" and BANG! busted mid limb. Oh well, on to another. Im starting to get frustrated, im having a hard time getting a shooter.

[Art B]

Sorry to hear that about your bow Kyle. I knew your bow didn't have a chance when you mentioned those bug marks. You need a better understanding of hickory to be successful with it.

Hickory is one wood that will deteriate the quickest of all the bow woods that we use for our bows. If you cut your own wood, split it, seal the ends, remove the bark if spring or early summer cut, and store properly. For me personally, I wouldn't be comfortable with hickory laying out just one day on the ground, much less a week or two. And boards bought at the lumber stores, IMO, most ofter aren't suitable for the simple reason the logs were improperly stored before milled.

[Kyle Patterson]

Thats good to know Art. We have an 'exotic woods' store here that i bought it from. They sell Hickory and elm staves, and occasionally osage when it comes in, so i really have no idea how it was treated before i got it. That was the second stave from them i have tried and both had the same end result (not that it couldnt have been a bit of user error aswell). What wood would you suggest for a rookie then, with the best odds of it working out? Should i stay away from staves for a while and focus on board bows? As i said before i am getting to the point where i just really want one of these things to shoot for me!

Thanks for the advice by the way. Im glad I joined this forum, im sure it will help with the learning curve greatly.

Kyle

[Art B]

You have several options Kyle. Buy or trade around for some hickory from someone who cuts their own specifically for bow making. I've had 50/50 results ordering from those that don't process the wood themselves.

But I would suggest you jump right in and get yourself an Osage stave if you want better odds of making a shooter. So much info and knowledgeable folks on these boards that it'll  hard not to be successful. Good luck.

[Kyle Patterson]

Thanks Art, I appreciate the advice!