A question on I beam risers..

[Bradford]

So building this bow at a higher poundage than I normally do has really got my gears moving.

I have been on so many bow sites in the last two days my head is going to spin off.

Looking for ways to make a riser hold a high poundage, of course I run across I beams.

Now, do you have to use a different woods when you build the Ibeam.. or is the act of just gluing the wood enough?.. I really like the look of a solid wood..with no line thru it.. so is it just as strong to cut your block of wood and use tight bond or smooth on to glue back together so it is at least laminated?

Thanks all

[Dmaxshawn]

I like to put a 1/4 inch piece of wood and a 1/8 inch piece of phenolic on each side and use smooth on.  

Hope this helps

[Bradford]

Yeah.. it is just hard to get 4" wide phenolic.  I get wood blocks (maple) at 2"x4"x20" for my risers... so whatever I get to sandwich, it needs to be 4" wide.

Also, this question goes back to clean looks.. no extra strips.

I see Bob Lee bows don't look like they are I beamed and he does up to 75#... So was wondering if they are just cut and laminated back up, or if they are treated or something????

[kennym]

I can do 4" wide phenolic in 1/8 or 1/4 up to 39" long and in red, black,or natural(tan)

[D]

You can make your own phenolic...well its actually micarta I think.  It involves soaking pieces of material of whatever color in epoxy and clamping them between two boards.  http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=002699  

I think I posted the link to it not for sure.  See if that works

[Trux Turning]

Your I beam can be of the same wood-most of the Bob Lee risers look like they are made of action wood-you'll notice they also have reinforcement through the riser and on the back.

[Bradford]

Actually he has a lot of natural wood as well.  I but his back reinforcement only goes up the face a bit.. not all the way to the limb pads.. But good to know about the same wood..

Kenny, sounds good.  Is that priced out on your website? if not shoot me a PM on the 1/8" material.  Thanks.

Yeah, I have thought about making some Micarta, but seems like the cost of the epoxy to do it, might not be worth it.. unless you are doing something special.

Thanks guys..

[eflanders]

As Trux said, your I-beam can be of the same wood.  The glue itself is stronger than the wood. If you orient the grain of the wood in opposite directions of each other you will also add strength to the joint.

[Sharp Shooter]

Here's a bow I'm currently working on that has an I-Beam of 3/16" + 3/16" (phenolic) on the face. The site widow cut into the I-beam approx. 1/8" leaving 1/16" in the beam. The wood in the riser is Beech. Target weight is 60 lb. This bow will be camo dipped so the beam want be seen. Tony
 

[last arrow]

Old Master Crafter sells solid fiberglass about .25" thick and 2" wide in lengths suitable to use as an I beam in a handle.  It reportedly makes a pretty solid handle also.

[Crooked Stic]

Here you go with an Ibeam of the same wood. The glue lines are visable on lighter colors but not so much on darker wood.
 

[Bradford]

There it is crooked stick.. I ended up doing that with a piece of fiddle back maple.. Yep, can see the glue lines, but they will only show on the back sides of the limb pad areas.  The rest of the riser will be laminated with a different wood.

Will post pics later