Author Topic: working with hackberry  (Read 983 times)

Offline gringol

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 1534
working with hackberry
« on: February 29, 2012, 06:27:00 PM »
I just received a hackberry stave from Semo-Hunter (a fantastic guy all around).  I know some of you use a lot of hackberry and I'd like to know if there is anything in particular I should know about working with the stuff.  The stave I have is lazer-straight, clear, and plenty long.

Offline PEARL DRUMS

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 3457
Re: working with hackberry
« Reply #1 on: February 29, 2012, 08:14:00 PM »
Chris is a grade A gumpy, SEMO dork. But he does work an honest bargain for certain   :laughing:  


I heat treat every hackberry bow I build and it loves it. My favorite 28" style so far is quite simple. 66" ttt, 2" wide for 12" beyond the fades, then straight taper to 1/2" tips. Flip the tips as well. It will be the fastest bow you have built Im betting! I love the stuff and second it to osage. Incredibly light in physical weight and a breeze to work.

Offline bbs383ci

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 85
Re: working with hackberry
« Reply #2 on: February 29, 2012, 10:09:00 PM »
Where can you get hackberry I don't have a clue what it looks like?

Sorry not trying to hijack your thread just curious?

Offline WestTexan

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 255
Re: working with hackberry
« Reply #3 on: February 29, 2012, 11:51:00 PM »

Offline Black Mockingbird

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 342
Re: working with hackberry
« Reply #4 on: March 01, 2012, 07:45:00 AM »
I agree that heat treating it is a must. It also does well with the lever designs like mollys and holmgaards and the like. Because of its lower density it allows really light stiff levers. My second fastest bow is a hackberry andaman-holmgaard.

Also should be noted im biased towards these designs.

Offline psychmonky

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 490
Re: working with hackberry
« Reply #5 on: March 01, 2012, 08:08:00 AM »
http://www.google.com/m?q=Hackberry+bark+images&client=ms-opera-mobile&channel=new

There is a link if you hate bing as much as I do. Lol.

Its important to note that big old hackberries have a very different looking bark than the warty, bumpy stuff on younger trees.
If you're gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough.

Offline SEMO_HUNTER

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 2792
Re: working with hackberry
« Reply #6 on: March 01, 2012, 09:42:00 AM »
quote:
Originally posted by PEARL DRUMS:
Chris is a grade A gumpy, SEMO dork. But he does work an honest bargain for certain    :thumbsup:
~Varitas Vos Liberabit~ John 8:32

Online Roy from Pa

  • Administrator
  • Trad Bowhunter
  • ****
  • Posts: 20690
Re: working with hackberry
« Reply #7 on: March 01, 2012, 01:24:00 PM »
Ya, dork sums it up..........  :laughing:

Offline SEMO_HUNTER

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 2792
Re: working with hackberry
« Reply #8 on: March 01, 2012, 02:34:00 PM »
quote:
Originally posted by Roy from Pa:
Ya, dork sums it up..........   :biglaugh:    :laughing:
~Varitas Vos Liberabit~ John 8:32

Online Roy from Pa

  • Administrator
  • Trad Bowhunter
  • ****
  • Posts: 20690
Re: working with hackberry
« Reply #9 on: March 02, 2012, 02:44:00 PM »
Look here ya Rebel , ya all have any idea how smart a bird dog gotta be to be trained to point, catch, and release frogs? And you seen the video of him doing that, right boy?   :laughing:

Offline gringol

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 1534
Re: working with hackberry
« Reply #10 on: March 06, 2012, 10:37:00 AM »
Thanks guys.

To straighten the kinks, I just heat the guilty area and clamp to something straight?  I was thinking about cutting out the crooked end and making a little bush bow.  It would be about 55" with a working handle.  How much draw length could I get out of that?  Recommendations?  I'd prefer simple....

Offline PEARL DRUMS

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 3457
Re: working with hackberry
« Reply #11 on: March 06, 2012, 11:30:00 AM »
If you want simple cut the straightest 62" section you can find in it and make a simple "d" bow.

Offline SEMO_HUNTER

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 2792
Re: working with hackberry
« Reply #12 on: March 06, 2012, 01:15:00 PM »
Just heat the area in question and impart some gentle persuasion, often you have to go a bit beyond straight to end up with straight....make sense? Also, I'd reduce the overall mass of that blank a little before trying to heat straighten it. But by all means I wouldn't shorten it anymore just because of a few wrinkles, those should come out very easily with a heat gun. Might help to post some pics of that blank I sent ya for the guys to look at. Pictures speak 1,000 words and will help these guys help you much easier.
~Varitas Vos Liberabit~ John 8:32

Offline gringol

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 1534
Re: working with hackberry
« Reply #13 on: March 06, 2012, 01:19:00 PM »
Thanks, Chris.  I'll post some pics when I get a chance.

Offline allpowerfulguru

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 17
Re: working with hackberry
« Reply #14 on: March 08, 2012, 01:39:00 AM »
Hey Guys, since we are on the subject of hackberry... I scored a nice straight and clear Sugarberry (Celtis laevigata)last Fall. It produced 6-8 good staves. I couldn't remove the bark because it was Fall, so I left it on. So far so good, but now I would like to start working a stave or two and am not sure what to do with the bark. I thought that as it dried out the bark would separate and come off easily, but it is not. Any suggestions on how to get the bark off without destroying the back would be appreciated.

Also on another note, could someone clarify the meaning of "heat treating" hackberry. Is this just heat bending in some reflex or what?

Please forgive the newbie questions... I'm a newbie.   :D

Offline gringol

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 1534
Re: working with hackberry
« Reply #15 on: March 08, 2012, 11:22:00 AM »
Heat treating is basically toasting the belly.  It increases compressive strength and reduces set.  Ultimately it makes the bow shoot faster.  Usually people add reflex while heat treating, but strictly speaking it is not required.

Offline k-hat

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 365
Re: working with hackberry
« Reply #16 on: March 08, 2012, 02:08:00 PM »
hey guru, what part of ET are you in?  I grew up in the lufkin area (we call that DEEP east texas   :) )

You be careful not to give any of my kin a hard time now out on the highways   ;)
Kevin

"he hath bent his bow, and made it ready . . .his arrow shall go forth as the lightning" - Psalm 7:12, Zech. 9:14

Offline allpowerfulguru

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 17
Re: working with hackberry
« Reply #17 on: March 08, 2012, 04:53:00 PM »
Gringol- thanks for the info, I will look into that a little more, I assume you need a heat gun.

K-hat- I grew up in Palestine, but call Tyler my home now. I lived in Nac for a few years, so I  know Lufkin well, beautiful area, great people.

Any other thoughts on getting the bark off???

Offline allpowerfulguru

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 17
Re: working with hackberry
« Reply #18 on: March 09, 2012, 02:23:00 AM »
Thanks for the insights everyone. I am going to start a new thread on the subject to make it easier for someone searching later on.

Gringol- Sorry for the thread jack. Make sure to post some pics of your hackberry as you work it, I am eager to see how it comes out.

Offline gringol

  • Trad Bowhunter
  • **
  • Posts: 1534
Re: working with hackberry
« Reply #19 on: March 09, 2012, 06:04:00 PM »
ok, I worked out some of the worst kinks in the stave and here is the result.

 

I thinking of a working handle flat bow.  ~60" NTN (I know it's short, but that's what I have to work with).  It's 1 3/4 inches wide with a slight taper to 1" in the last 12".  For all you hackberry wizards, what's the best cross section for this?  rectangular? trapezoid?

Users currently browsing this topic:

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
 

Contact Us | Trad Gang.com © | User Agreement

Copyright 2003 thru 2024 ~ Trad Gang.com ©