Winged elm selfbow build

[Flyboy718]

I have 5 winged elm staves that I cut a year ago that are ready for each to make a bow.  They are about 3" at the base and taper to 1 1/2 to 2" at the tip and I cut them very long.  Any ideas on dimensions?


 

[PEARL DRUMS]

What do you want from them? A recurve, flatbow, long bow?

[Flyboy718]

I would like to try whatever is easiest to make first...longbow?  And be able to hunt deer with it.

[PEARL DRUMS]

For a 28" or so draw I like a 66" ttt flat bow, 1 3/4" wide 12" past the fades then straight taper to 1/2" tips. Dry heat 3-4" of reflex in and you will be very happy.

[Flyboy718]

Originally posted by PEARL DRUMS:
For a 28" or so draw I like a 66" ttt flat bow, 1 3/4" wide 12" past the fades then straight taper to 1/2" tips. Dry heat 3-4" of reflex in and you will be very happy.

Thanks!  How long should I make the grip area and shelf?  How do I dry heat some reflex in to it?  I have a heat gun...

[PEARL DRUMS]

4" handle, 2" fades. You can build an easy 2 x 6 caul to add reflex or steam the center 12" and set the handle back. That requires a bar clamp and two chunks of 2 x 4 x 4" long.  Do you have the Bowyers Bible's I or II?

[Flyboy718]

Originally posted by PEARL DRUMS:
4" handle, 2" fades. You can build an easy 2 x 6 caul to add reflex or steam the center 12" and set the handle back. That requires a bar clamp and two chunks of 2 x 4 x 4" long.  Do you have the Bowyers Bible's I or II?

I do, have BBI but my buddy is borrowing it.  
No work on the bow this weekend, had lots of other things I had to get done.

[George Tsoukalas]

Saplings are fun. First imagine stringing the bow. Pretend you are stringing and see if it wants to flip on you. Check to see if a long string falls on where the handle would be...center of tip to center of tip. Choose the best side for the back. Knots are better left on the back and there will be knots. Mark a couple of lines for belly and back. Remove the belly wood. Remove the bark. Floor tiller a few inches and let dry. I like a 4-5 inch handle and a 1.5 to 2 in fade. I like the handle centered and symmetrical. Leave the bow 2 inches or longer to counteract the crown. Jawge

[Flyboy718]

Originally posted by George Tsoukalas:
Saplings are fun. First imagine stringing the bow. Pretend you are stringing and see if it wants to flip on you. Check to see if a long string falls on where the handle would be...center of tip to center of tip. Choose the best side for the back. Knots are better left on the back and there will be knots. Mark a couple of lines for belly and back. Remove the belly wood. Remove the bark. Floor tiller a few inches and let dry. I like a 4-5 inch handle and a 1.5 to 2 in fade. I like the handle centered and symmetrical. Leave the bow 2 inches or longer to counteract the crown. Jawge

Thanks!  I think I messed up though when I split one in two trying to get two bows out of one sapling...oh well I have 4 more saplings to play with...these have been drying for a year.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Use a saw to kerf elm, splitting doesnt work so hot!

[Flyboy718]

Originally posted by PEARL DRUMS:
Use a saw to kerf elm, splitting doesnt work so hot!

That brings up a good question...what is the minimum dimensions of a stave needed to make a bow?