trapping jig

[bjansen]

Scars, if I am thinking about your observation correctly...and maybe I am not:  If you put the fence on the thick side of the 2x4 (i.e. not riding right up against the sanding wheel) you would not be able to adjust how much material the sander would take off.

[scars]

No, Mount the fence on the thick side Put the thick side of the 2x4 closest to the drum. Just like you have with the jig now but mirror image it. Your fence would make your trap equal amount of removal. Same principal as a router table. The high side of your table will be against the drum.

The fence would still be against or next to the drum

[Gundog68]

I made an adjustable jig which allows me to use a shelfboard as a rail. This works on a drill press. I made the prototype for a spindle sander but with the drill press it works better. Also a use a crossslide which allows me to adjust in fine details.

   

[bamboo]

Originally posted by Bowjunkie:
Ok, I'm a jig guy, I've got stacks of them, but I'll be the odd guy here and say I don't think this type of jig would work well for me. It would set me back. My eventual 'trap shape' varies/evolves from flares to mid limb to outer limb a noticeable amount... better accomlished by hand, eye, and feel, than by jig. Know what I mean?

I do know what you mean--not as much trap on the limb butts [fades]as mid limb-as the tips--and I feather out the trap on the tips around the transition to the tip wedges
I found if I layed it out with reference lines--on the belly-say 3/16" in from the rough shape-from fade to tip wedge and grind to that with an eased transition area at both ends of the trapped section--then I finish up with a long block by hand and sanding tape [shoeshine fashion]
they come out pretty consistent
my first thought is always jig too--in this case it was not the answer for me--

[bjansen]

Understood Scars...great observation. Simple fix, yet I would never have thought of that.

[scars]