3 under tiller?

[Monteria]

I hate to do it gentlemen, but I have to make my first post as a beggar... I have searched, and used the search function, and I see several mentions but no definitive "this is how you do it".

It seems that not all bows, designs, or shooters are the same, but how do you guys tiller for 3 under?

The bow I am working on is a 54 or 56" (it has been so long since I built the form that I can't even remember)recurve. I have heard that 3 under prefers a high shelf and you can always remove wood, so I set it 1.5+" above center.

Currently, it is tillered 1/4" positive on the bottom limb. And it shoots as well as any recurve I have shot with no rug or silencers, and slightly over spined arrows. But it seems there could be room for improvement.

Am I at a good starting point? If so, how do you fine tune from here?

Thanks in advance,

Steve

[Roy from Pa]

I believe you want it tillered about 1/8th positive on the top limb for three under. The 1.5 for the shelf is what I set them at.

[Monteria]

Thanks Roy. But now I might be more confused than ever... you are saying that the string, at brace, should be 1/8" farther from the riser fade on the top limb, correct?

Reason says that is what you mean, and that I have the definition of "positive" tiller all wrong.

Maybe I should stick with cooking... There is a piping hot plate of seafood scampi screaming my name right now  

Steve

[Roy from Pa]

But now I might be more confused than ever... you are saying that the string, at brace, should be 1/8" farther from the riser fade on the top limb, correct?

Yes, a positive tiller is when the top limb has a longer measurement from the end of riser to the string than the bottom limb measured from the end of the riser. However a 1/8th positive tiller for three under is just a starting reference point. You will have to shoot the bow and adjust tiller as seems fit.

There was another thread awhile back, where + or - tiller was thrown out the window:) The consensus was, with the bow on the tillering tree, the string should pull straight down the tree on a vertical line even with about where your middle finger should be. But that was for the tillering rope placed on the bow string for shooting split finger. For tillering three under, you would need your pull rope on the tree about 5/8th to 3/4 lower than for split. Hope I did not confuse you there, Steve:) I'll see if I can find the other thread and post it here. But I am sure others will chime in here too.

[Roy from Pa]

Ok found it. Read through this thread, Steve. Very informational. Pay close attention to all of Bowjunkies posts. The Man knows his stuff:)

  http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=008687

[Monteria]

Got it, Roy. Thanks.

And I did see the thread you are referring to. The visual reference in that thread was superb. It just seemed a little advanced for this newb  

I'll start working the top limb down, a little at a time, shooting pretty often, until it just feels "right".

Steve

[Monteria]

Ah, different thread... It shall be read!

[Monteria]

And it has been read... And it seems perfectly logical. In fact, its pretty similar to the strait nock travel argument in compounds. Easy enough. Ill rebuild my half ass tiller tree this weekend!

Steve