something to consider if you are making a glass re curve as your first bow, you will have alot of upfront cost. Your form will be the foundation of a successful bow. One way to get a good design for a form is to pick up a cheap bow you like the design of and copy it. I picked up a needy little bow on an online auction site for 30 bucks including shipping, copied the profile and tweaked the design a little and made a sweet little bow. Also repaired the bow I bought added a nice new string and recouped my investment plus alittle profit.
As for the cost of bow itself,The components will be about the same as buying a good stave for making a self bow. Smooth on is a good epoxy and you dont need a hot box for it, just make sure it cures in a stable 70+ ambient temp environment. Some will argue but heat only tempers the glue, it raises its delamination temp, so just dont leave bow in the back window of your car while you are parked mid day in death valley and you will be ok. You can use cheaper species of lamination's but dont skimp on quality. Nothing hurts worse then having an unstable lame come apart and ruin a bow that would have worked other wise (dont ask How I know this). Maple is usually cheaper and does real well, will feel a little stacky over woods but is very stable.
Many many people build a glass bow as their first bow and have good success. If I am teaching someone else I usually have them build a couple of board bows first Just to get an understanding of the tillering process. That way they know what to look for when finishing. I am sure there is someone here that will fix you up on all your components.
Topic: A few questions for you bow builders (Read 213 times)
