Wedge length in three piece takedown bows??

[Sharp Shooter]

I currently use an 8 1/2" wedge in my bows. They are 64" AMO with limb length approx. 29". Bingham recommends 10 1/4" wedge for this length bow. Make question is what be "PRO" and "CON" for using a longer wedge? I'll some pics of a problem I'm having with some limbs, just wondering if this might be the cause. Tony

[Trux Turning]

A lot depends on where and how your limbs are bending. If they are bending too close to your riser a longer wedge will push the bend out towards the tip and decrease the working length of the limb. What's your taper in those limbs?

[Sharp Shooter]

These pics show how close the end of the wedge is to the index pin. This is were I have a problem sometimes. This bow limb started slitting, just the top glass, from the index pin hole down the face about an inch. I thought I had it fixed, but when I pulled to full draw popped the glass lose another half inch. I like having as much working limb as possible, I think this my be a little to much. The taper is .002. Thanks Tony    

[Crooked Stic]

Are you sure your hole is deep enough and the pin is not bottoming out into the core material?

[Sharp Shooter]

Yes the index hole is bore all the way through.

[Crooked Stic]

Maybe when you drilled thru you might have made a stress area with a not so clean of a break thru. The end of your wedge will work some so maybe making it thicker so it does not flex as much will help. I used to drill all the way thru and cover with an overlay and had problems with them popping up or spitting over the hole. I then glued a short piece of dowell in the top part of the hole to have something to glue to in that area. Worked pretty good. Now I no longer drill thru.

[T Folts]

I also had the same issue with the overlay popping up. I was told by a pro to keep the overlay shorter and not extend beyond the riser.  Also keeping the overlay thinner helps it to flex.

[Sharp Shooter]

Thanks everyone from the input some good ideas to try. Tony