Mulberry staves accomplished, Now what! ?????

[highpoint forge]

My halves are now split and looks like some is too short and/or too thin, but three full length, snaky sometimes knotty  80" staves emerged. One tapered severely and still has 66" to work with if I trim it. The ends are sealed. Now what do I do? Season it or rough out bows and then season it?  The shorter pieces are 40" probably and could be limbs for a laminated bow I suppose? What do I do now?

Started with this:

   


   

   

   

   

   

[CalebNH00]

i would let it dry a couple of days to let some of the moister out, then rough out a bow. once it will bend about 8", let it season for three weeks, then finish tillering. if after the three weeks it takes set too easily, let it dry another week and try again. the small 40" billets could be spliced together to make a plenty long bow.

[PEARL DRUMS]

lay them somewhere dry and cool for at least 12 months. Or, rough out a bow now and seal the whole thing in a few coats of shellac. Let it sit somewhere dry and cool for at least 3-4 months. Wet wood sucks and it makes sucky bows. Calebs idea is so-so for whitewoods, except 3 weeks is well short of enough time. You cant apply those same rules to locust, osage and mulberry.

[Roy from Pa]

What Pearly Boy said.

[J.F. Miller]

I think I'd find the back on each stave and reduce them to a bow blank while they are still green, especially if you intend to correct the straightness or induce reflex or whatever with heat. wet wood responds to steam heat very well.

find your backs, seal the back and ends only with shellac, make corrections, then let them air dry out of the sun and wind for a few months. at that point, you can start force-drying them toward the moisture content that suits you.

[highpoint forge]

Going to dry them in the barn.....don't have a drawknife setup yet.