Homeade way to join billets with hand tools?

[TroutGuide]

So I have several sister billets that I want to join to make a selfbows.  How do I do this with hand tools. I have seen fishtail and z splices but I know I am not capable of pulling that off correctly. I am thinking a sleeve configuration but I need advise. Also how can I do this with local supplies?  I would rather go buy something cheap around here than order a kit.  Thoughts?

[Eric Krewson]

You can cut a Z splice with a hand saw, it doesn't have to be perfect.

Draw your pattern on a piece of paper first, glue it on your limbs lining it up with the center line on each billet. The picture is of a limb replacement with splices layed out using a a pattern.

   

 Cut just outside the lines the best you can, then your heat splices really hot with a heat gun, fit them together and clamp with three C clamps then let them cool before you glue them together. The splices will bend and conform to each other and you will have a pretty good fitting splice.

[J.F. Miller]

and use a glue with good gap filling properties like Urac or Unibond 800. for a hand cut splice like this I would not use Titebond. actually I wouldn't use titebond even if I cut it with a bandsaw and jig, either.

[PEARL DRUMS]

A "V" splice is an option. Ive done them by hand. They have to be longer to get the surface area a z or w gives. Say 6" or so. You can heat the splice up pre-glue and clamp it to tighten the fit up.

[LittleBen]

I'd recommend practicing on some scraps to get your skills up. You'd be amazed what you can do with a hand saw with a little practice.

[7 Lakes]

I like the Z splice but only cut out one half.  I then use the first half as my pattern and pencil it on the second billet.  This way any errors get transfered so the errors fit together. It's also a little easier for me to make sure the entire length is straight.

I use a bandsaw to make sure my cuts stay at 90 degrees.  Not sure I could accomplish this by hand.

Sorry, I just noticed you wanted to do this by hand.  I watched an old timer put together dovetail notches by hand one time.  He penciled out his cut on the first piece and made the cut, then cleaned them up just a bit doing his best to make sure the cuts were 90 degrees.  He then laid the first piece on the second and penciled on his marks.  Then cut out the second piece and had an almost perfect fit.  The trick is keeping all the cuts 90 degrees.

[TroutGuide]

That 90deg. Thing is what scares me the most. I have a few pieces to play with so I may try and see how I do.  Thanks for the info so far.

[John Scifres]

Hardest thing about cutting by hand is keeping the cuts square.  Take your time and make sure your blade stays at the same angle.

[Eric Krewson]

You can always go back over your cuts with a thin file and straighten them up. I try a dry fit of my splices, hold the joint up to a light to see what wood is keeping the splice from fitting together well and remove it with my belt sander. a file would work just as well.

[Bowjunkie]

Do any of you guys drill and pin your splices? I've seen one or two guys do it, but I never have.

[PEARL DRUMS]

I did one Jeff. It cracked and almost ruined the bow. Later on a wiseman by the name of Art Butner set me straight, never again have I pinned an already strong joint.

[TroutGuide]

How 'bout making an epoxy sleeve and making a two piece bow?  Seems this might actually be easier than a splice?

[scars]

Al Herrin use a 4" X 1 1/4" thin walled pipe whittled his billets to fit inside then glued them together.

I think with the added weight at the handle it would reduce hand shock or help reduce it.

[halfseminole]

I use finger joints or fishmouth joints, but the Z above is an excellent one.  All I use is hide glue, though, so your mileage may vary.