Author Topic: Shooting stone points  (Read 615 times)

Offline talkingcabbage

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Shooting stone points
« on: August 23, 2013, 11:55:00 PM »
So, I got these awesome stone points from Kevin (thanks again!), and tied on the two practice points he sent to some fir arrow shafts.  I was wondering what would be safest to shoot these guys in to.  What's you're thoughts?  I was thinking some loose-ish straw bales, since I'm in Iowa and have access to that kind of stuff.  Kevin suggested some fine sand.
Anyone use stone points have a recommendation?  I'm planning on hunting with these this year and wanted to shoot them at least once or twice to make sure they fly good before I take them out for real.  

Oh, and here's a pic right after I sinew wrapped them.  These are the practice points.
 

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Offline Bowjunkie

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Re: Shooting stone points
« Reply #1 on: August 24, 2013, 05:55:00 AM »
Sand is ideal. Easy to pull them out of.

When you install your good hunting points, you should set them deeper into the shaft for better stability and durability.

Offline John Scifres

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Re: Shooting stone points
« Reply #2 on: August 24, 2013, 09:03:00 AM »
Just to piggyback here...

Has anyone seen or made a "portable" sand target.  I shoot in my backyard and need to use my shed as a backstop.  The situation means I have to shoot towards the door making a permanent sand pile problematic.  I've had some ideas but don't want to reinvent the wheel unless I have to.  Thanks.
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Offline talkingcabbage

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Re: Shooting stone points
« Reply #3 on: August 24, 2013, 11:02:00 PM »
Bowjunkie, how deep do you recommend?  I'm kinda playing this by ear here.  

And any particular kind of sand?  Just loose in a pile, or in a bag?  Seems like sand would be much harder than something like loose straw, or something similar.

And the portable target is intriguing.  I've been trying to think of some way to make a target that was something other than a pile of sand.  Any thoughts?  Maybe a box frame with cardboard or paper stapled over the open sides with sand or straw filler?
Joe

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Offline talkingcabbage

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Re: Shooting stone points
« Reply #4 on: August 25, 2013, 06:56:00 PM »
ttt
Joe

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One of two things will happen; it'll either work or it won't.

Online Pat B

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Re: Shooting stone points
« Reply #5 on: August 25, 2013, 07:37:00 PM »
Joe, go about 1/3 of the head length. That will give good support to the head.
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Offline macbow

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Re: Shooting stone points
« Reply #6 on: August 25, 2013, 08:01:00 PM »
How about some sand bags piled in a box with an open front?
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Offline talkingcabbage

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Re: Shooting stone points
« Reply #7 on: August 26, 2013, 12:13:00 AM »
Maybe I'm just being over cautious, but a bag of sand sure seems like it'd be awful hard.  You're sure it'll be "soft" enough to not break those stone points?
Joe

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Offline talkingcabbage

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Re: Shooting stone points
« Reply #8 on: August 26, 2013, 12:14:00 AM »
And thanks Pat.  I'll definitely do that on the hunting ones.
Joe

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One of two things will happen; it'll either work or it won't.

Offline macbow

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Re: Shooting stone points
« Reply #9 on: August 26, 2013, 08:24:00 AM »
Loose sand would certainly be better.
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Online Roy from Pa

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Re: Shooting stone points
« Reply #10 on: August 26, 2013, 08:32:00 AM »
Make yourself a box out of plywood. Say 3 foot wide by 4 foot deep. Have the front edge about 6 inches high and the back about 3 feet high, sides cut at an angle from the 6 inch front to the 3 foot back. The sand will lay in there at an angle. Keep it covered with a tarp when not in use.

Or just have a ton of sand delivered and just put it in a little pile, keep it covered with a tarp when not in use. Just watch out for stray cats:) LOL

Offline John Scifres

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Re: Shooting stone points
« Reply #11 on: August 26, 2013, 10:08:00 AM »
Stone heads work on cats.
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Offline talkingcabbage

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Re: Shooting stone points
« Reply #12 on: August 26, 2013, 10:51:00 AM »
lol.  So do blunts, field points, broadheads.  And I've got plenty of stray cats around my place.  Seems all the neighbors have to have at least 4 and let them run all around and climb on my cars.  I'm starting to thin out the herd, though    :thumbsup:  

That's kinda what I was thinking too, Roy, I just wasn't sure about the sand.  But I'll give it a shot.  It'll either work or it wont, right?
Joe

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One of two things will happen; it'll either work or it won't.

Offline NEW GUY

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Re: Shooting stone points
« Reply #13 on: August 26, 2013, 02:00:00 PM »
If your not going to shoot your stone points a bunch then straw bales will work fine.  You just may have to push them out the back side.  That's what most the guys I know who shoot stone do, just to check that they are flying good, then practice with field tips.  Also, if you will shoot them some before you shoot your stone in them, they will loosen up enough to allow your arrow to go through easier.
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Offline John Scifres

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Re: Shooting stone points
« Reply #14 on: August 26, 2013, 02:21:00 PM »
What the heck Shane?  Did you wake up from your coma for your annual post to Tradgang?  Hope all is well.
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Offline talkingcabbage

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Re: Shooting stone points
« Reply #15 on: August 26, 2013, 09:59:00 PM »
New Guy, (Shane, I assume), yes, I'm just going to shoot them once or twice to make sure they fly right, then not again till they penetrate hide.  I'm sure I'll take some pics to show off if they fly good. I've still got to split some feathers to tie on these practice ones, and mount the hunting ones, so it'll be a while. And I'm on nights the next two weeks, so that doesn't help much either. Don't ya hate when work gets in the way of the important things?
The wife and I have been busy canning a butt load of tomatoes and stuff from the garden. Tomorrow is another batch of strawberry rhubarb jam  :)
Joe

"If your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt."

One of two things will happen; it'll either work or it won't.

Offline Tommy Leach

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Re: Shooting stone points
« Reply #16 on: August 26, 2013, 10:15:00 PM »
Joe, I used a piece of high density foam about 6" thick. I then put it about a foot in front of my block. My block is pretty soft so the arrows did penetrate the block a bit but didn't hurt the heads. I would not shoot them in sand unless you can retouch the head and make sure it is really sharp. Sand is pretty abrasive and will dull the cutting edge quickly. Also, if you are not going to shoot each hunting point I would weight each head the add weight to the lighter ones so you have the same forward weight. I just did this on the arrows I took on my bear hunt. Each stone point had weight added to them to get to 175 gn. I shot each one before the hunt and they all shot the same. I did retouch the edges and keep each point in its own sheath so they would not bang around and get dull in my quiver. Good Luck! Tommy
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Offline talkingcabbage

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Re: Shooting stone points
« Reply #17 on: August 27, 2013, 01:02:00 AM »
Tommy, I don't know how to retouch the points. I'm only starting to learn how to knap. So far all I have is a bunch of broken rocks.  :(
 I need to get a grain scale too. I have heard of adding weight to get them to match. You just add another wrap or two of sinew, right? Anyway, I am going to shoot the hunting points, but only to make sure they hit where I'm looking, and then no more till I see a deer. I'll play around with the practice points though.
Joe

"If your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt."

One of two things will happen; it'll either work or it won't.

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