skinning a selfbow

[Echatham]

could somebody lay out the skinning process for me please?  I know there has been a thread... probably many... on this but i can't find it now that i need it. Thanks!

[Eric Krewson]

Leave out the super glue on the back step, it is unnecessary.

Some people wrap the skinned limb with an Ace bandage while the skin dries, another unnecessary step in my opinion. By the time I have worked my thumbs end to end on a bow limb squeezing excess glue out for about 30 minutes the glue is setting and the skin isn't going anywhere. I have skinned more bows than I can remember, all with good results by using the below method.

   http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=045038

[KellyG]

Well there are several ways but the one I used to do my last bow I learned this year at MOJAM from dvshunter.

Soak the skins in warm water until for about 20 minutes or so.

It is simple add glue to the back of the bow so it covers the whole thing.

Lay skin on bow and press it down with your fingers working from the middle out and from the one end to he handle. working out air and glue bubbles.

let it set for about and half hour to let the glue set of  bit then work the skin again looking for any air or glue pockets.

let dry I prefer over night just to be sure the glue is good and dry.

Then use a file and file the edge of the bow and you will see the skin where it meets the corner to cut. you go down the whole length and it cleans up the edge and trims off all the excess.

check your edges reapply glue to any area not holding. It happens on the edges mostly. (if you find it in the middle use a razor cut a small hole and put some super glue in there. I have not had to do that yet).

Here is a close up of the last couple of my skinning jobs.

 

 

I have only done about 4 bows with skins. I tried the wrapping them and had more issues doing that. Skin slipping, more air pockets and such.

Also if you do more then one skin on the same bow, do them one at a time. You dont have to let the first one completely dry you can do them one after the other but get the first one on and where you want it then do the other.

[KellyG]

Oh and eric has way more knowledge at this then I do. SO listen close to him when he gives up his secrets.

[Echatham]

Thanks guys!

[Echatham]

Eric is TB III ok? i have that and white elmers wood glue. which would you use?

[Eric Krewson]

I think TB111 is OK but can't remember the color. TB2 is very yellow and will show through your skin and corrupt the natural color.

I use Elmer's stainable carpenters glue which dries almost transparent.

Here is my late wife's bow. I grabbed a TB2 type glue without thinking when I put the skins on. This skin didn't have one hint of yellow in it before I glued the skin on with the wrong glue.

   

[LittleBen]

How about using hide glue? Especially on a sinewed bow?

[Echatham]

eric i used the elmers white wood glue. it dries clear too.  dont know if it makes a difference here though. the wood is yellow after all.

[Echatham]

tru oil right over skins or spray urethane first?  not doing it til tomorrow either way.

[Eric Krewson]

Tru oil first, 4 or 5 coats sand very lightly after coat #3, just about paper pressure only.

Osage may be yellow at first but will turn, even under skins, TB never turns.

Hide glue would be fine, more difficult to work with as it dries out quicker than wood glue. Wood glue actually works well with sinew, many use it in place of hide glue when sinewing a bow, I understand Ed Scott uses wood glue on his sinewed bows.

[SportHunter]

Thanks for the great build along Eric, i have a set of bull snake skins I've been needing to use.

[Echatham]

SportHunter no problem.  not much of a build along this time really, just a couple of "i need help! threads lol!  next time i will do another proper 20 page build along.  forces me to slow down and gives me a chance at getting backup before i screw up.  probably wouldn't have come up 15 lbs short if i had gone slower.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Listen to Eric and follow his post on skinning, that's where I learned to do it right and if you follow his advice you can't go wrong. Problem is that most guys just can't do it or have a flair for it. You have to have that "creative" nature about you in order to do a flawless snake skin job. It takes time and patience to do good work, master those skills and you can be a pro at it.

Plus one more on Tru Oil, no other finish will do.

~MO~

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Originally posted by Echatham:
eric i used the elmers white wood glue. it dries clear too.  dont know if it makes a difference here though. the wood is yellow after all.

Elmer's Wood Glue Max for interior/exterior which is a bit grey in color is all I use now. Have not had any adhesion issues with it whatsoever. Dries clear, no off color issues, and then Tru Oil over the skins, buffing in between coats, use light grit sand paper after the 4th coat to cut the scale pockets off then apply at least 3 more coats of tru oil. Buff with 0000 steel wool until it suits your tastes. Finish up with Pledge furniture polish on a clean rag to seal. Done.

[Echatham]

hey it turned out alright!

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Great job.