riser 911

[robA72]

hey everyone,
I am 99% sure my riser is going to pop off. Is this bow ruined or can I save it?
If I can save it, how?
Thank you all!

[macbow]

Hi Robert, will need a little more info.
Type of bow?
Pictures?
Is it just the glued on handle coming off?
Usually a handle wanting to come off means the bow is bending and the handle is not.

[macbow]

If this is the hickory bow in the weight loss thread from what I can see the handle could be a,little,longer and the fades could then taper more for the,transition from bending,to non bending.
Another option would be to pop the handle off and let the bow bend through the handle. Wrap and build the handle area up with some sort of cord or leather.

[Bowjunkie]

I agree, if it is the bow in the weight loss thread, it should be longer from dip to dip and a more gradual slope. What that slope does, is it slows and then stops the limbs from bending. If you try to accomplish this too abruptly, the handle piece will be more prone to seperate from the core... you're just asking too much of the glue joint.

Speaking of glue joints... what did you use for glue and how did you prep the gluing surfaces?

[robA72]

okay guys,
This is the bow from the weight loss thread. The handle did come off, so I'm going with macbow's suggestion of just wrapping the handle and using cord to build it up.
But what did I do wrong?
Bowjunkie, I used TBIII and I slathered it on the handle and riser then clamped them together.
On the next bow, do I need to leave the limb thicker towards the riser fades?
Thank you all for your help.

[macbow]

I've not had good luck with TB for handles. I know it will work but the surfaces have to be perfectly matched and smooth.
TB is not a,gap filling glue.
On a,hickory self bow the handle would be,part of the,original stave then the shape of your handle might have worked.

As Bowjunkie said a longer slope or fade will,allow the thin part to bend a little and then as it,gets thicker it helps stop the handle part from bending.
A gap filling glue like unibond 800 or smooth on is a little insurance on the glue joint.

[macbow]

This is a picture of some of my light weight risers.
 

I use about 1/4 inch slats to build up my handles and riser.

[Bowjunkie]

I use Smooth On epoxy, Unibond works too. I perfectly mate the gluing surfaces, then rough them up with a toothing plane blade... dragging it longways with the piece until the grooves are the full depth of the teeth.

I do the same thing with tip overlays and such too. And since I've been doing so, haven't had a single piece come loose anywhere.

[Roy from Pa]

Rob, I know a lot of guys use TBIII, and it could be ok. But when making a bow, I like to use a quality industrial strength glue. We go through all this work to make a bow, why not use a quality glue? I use Unibond800 and or Smooth On Epoxy. I have never had a failure with a glue up from limbs, to risers, to tip over lays.

However with risers, you need a longer gradual taper into the limbs as Bowjunkie explained above.

[LittleBen]

I agree with the glue comments ... a gap filling glue makes life alot easier ... I tend to use TBIII, but I also make sure I'm gluing perfectly flat pieces together and its still a PITA .... not sure why I keep doing it that way .... habit I guess ..

[robA72]

Okay. Thanks everyone. As usual, this has been a learning experience. I'm just thrilled this bow is still salvageable.
I want to glue some antler overlays on the tips. Should I only use unibond 800 or Smooth On Epoxy for this?

[macbow]

I know a lot of the guys use smooth on for their tip overlays.
I use thick superglue. Haven't had any pop off yet out of about 50 bows.

Back in the day the Hoyt's used super glue for their tip overlays.