Scott's Tri Lam Build Along

[Scott E]

[Scott E]

I rounded the belly and trapped the back today. How does it look? Did I take enough off the back?

[Scott E]

Also I'm a little nervous about taking the rind off the back. I have cabinet scrapers to do it. Any tips? How do I know when I've taken enough off and avoid taking too much off.

[macbow]

Scraping with the scraper will produce small slivers and that is about how much you need. The color will change and be,sort of,obvious.
Main caution don't set the scraper down too hard so as to ding the fibers .

[Roy from Pa]

Back looks good. You took the boo to the glue line like a good Bowyer:) The belly side will need more wood removed to achieve the 40 pounds you want at 30 inches, I designed a lot of belly wood into that blank, so you could work "SLOWLY" into a bow:) Those pencil lines I scribed on the belly side of the Osage and down along the sides of the Osage, were just a starting guide for you. I am sure you will need to take the facets down more on the sides and in more towards the center of the belly, even more to get down to 40 pounds. Scribe more lines lower along the side and in more towards the center of the belly, use a compass, and keep them even. Look at them to make sure they are even, symmetrical so to speak, before you rasp again. Actually I would take the sides right down to the glue joint eventually, without rupturing the glue joint, just like you did the boo on the back! There is a lot of wood there, and that is what you need to approach this tillering process. You should end up with a sweet radiuses belly. Just be sure to sand after rasping to remove any deep rasp marks. When is doubt, STOP and ask questions, Grasshopper:)

[Roy from Pa]

The rind should be the very last thing you do. Get the bow tillered, then worry about it. But when you get to it, be very careful. Scrape it lightly, do not put the scraper straight down on it. Hold the scraper almost flat and start your motion towards you before setting the scraper down onto the rind, when you get to the end of your motion, gradually pull the scraper up off the rind. Get about 80% of it off and go with 320 sand paper, sanding lengthwise on the limb. There could be deeper longitude lines on the back of the boo where the rind is counter sunk, do not try to get all the rind off of those.  Just let it go. Just barely round off the high part of the nodes.

[Bowjunkie]

You're learning too, old grasshopper  

[Roy from Pa]

Well Scott? Any progress?

[Scott E]

Hunting season has kept me pretty busy but I got some work done this weekend. What do you think? The limb on the bottom looks stiff to me.

Any hinges or stiff spots?

[Roy from Pa]

I don't like the area I marked, looks a little thin so ya better stay away from it and the limb above it is too stiff.

 

[Scott E]

Okay I'll be sure to stay away from that spot and take some wood off the area above it.

Any other thoughts on where to take off wood or where not to?

[Razorbak]

listen to Roy and go slow and you will have a shooter..looks like mid limbs need to bend more right Roy  

[Roy from Pa]

At a brace like he shows, the mid limbs will be flat. They won't start to bend till further down the tree.

[Bowjunkie]

They won't start to bend? I think they're already bending aren't they? You mean they won't bend into an arc until later?

Reflexed bows will at some point, appear flat in the limb on their way to full draw. Depending on the amount and location of reflex, and how the bow is tillered, they may properly appear flat at brace.

[Black Mockingbird]

I make it a point to stay away from the fades until I'm a few to several inches from full draw...because a hinge at the fade in any time of the process is THE worst area to hinge a bow....and when posting tiller checks or full draw photos try to take them straight on and at the same level as the bow is...its a lil hard to see when its on angle laying on the ground and your standing back away from it...

Oh n one more thing...make yourself a rope n pulley system....it'll be much easier for you to see the bend as it unfolds before your eyes and will be much easier to see any problems like flat spots and hinges,and limb timing....especially for reflex deflex bows etc...