Kenny's giveaway veneer bow -Update

[beachbowhunter]

You might have seen the bow I just finished using some zebra veneers and lams that Kenny gracioulsy gave away...
  http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=010629;p=1  
I was pretty stoked until I noticed these...

   

   

[beachbowhunter]

It looks like there are cracks following the wood grain in the wenge.  The one on the top in the site window you can't feel even with a fingernail and doesnt open up when the bow is strung.  The one on the bottom you can only feel when the bow is strung, and only with a fingernail.  Man am I bummed!  It is a pretty heavy bow (around 55-58@27) so I'm not anxious to string it up and shoot it much.

I scrounged up some similar wood and glued up another riser block but am scratching my head on how to fit the existing limbs to line up...thinking dowel pins in the alignment pin holes.

[LittleBen]

Grind the front and back of the riser flat and add a few alternating white/black glass overlays from limb pad to limb pad.

[recurvericky]

This can be fixed. You need to get CA glue that is really thin. You can buy it at hobby stores like Hobby Lobby. Mask off the area around the cracks with tape. String the bow so the cracks will open up. If this does not open the cracks, find a way to do so, such as torquing the riser to open the cracks. Once you have opened the cracks slowly fill the crack with the CA. Because the CA is so thin, it will soak into the wood. Keep adding CA until the wood will not absorb anymore. At that point unstring the bow so the cracks will close. You may need to apply pressure with clamps. Let the bow set overnight and it should be fixed. I had a bow that crack through the sight window into the grip due to a dry fire. I used this technique and have had to additional issues. If you want to go one step further, you could drill a hole perpendicular to the cracks and thread a wood or dry wall screw into the hole. Back the screw out all the way and score it with a pair of pliers. Add CA to the screw and run it back into the wood until the scored area of the screw is just below the surface of the wood. Now slowly bend the head of the screw back and forth until the screw breaks off. The screw should now be below the surface of the wood. If you have any scrap would from when the riser was made, sand it and mix the dust with 5 minute epoxy to make a paste that will match the riser. Now fill the hole, allow to cure completely, sand and spray with whatever finish you like. If you have any questions, please let me know.

[beachbowhunter]

Thanks for the ideas guys. I think I will try the CA idea. Maybe I need to borrow a football helmet to wear while I string it!

[Dan Bonner]

Most bowyers won't admit to it but if they use natural wood that is not laminated or stabilized super glue finds its way into lots of bows. I have used Ricky's technique lots of times. I have also had good results on larger cracks by heating smooth on to about 115-120 degrees so it becomes very viscous and applying with a syringe to the opened crack. Then umbrace the bow and wrap with a bicycle inner tube or clamp until it sets. Don't get it so hot that it tries to set before you apply it though.

[beachbowhunter]

I bet you are right on target Dan. These cracks are not open much. I think I need to string it up and let it sit for a while and then go for it.

[Al Dean]

I have more than once epoxied oak dowel rod into my alignment pin holes and redrilled.

[rkmnt2]

This is why I am very picky about where and how I use wenge anymore. Have had similar experiences with it in the past..... Beautiful wood, very coarse grain

[beachbowhunter]

Good news.  I strung the bow for a while to get the crack to open a bit and hit it with some thin CA and it seems to have worked like a charm. Shot a few dozen arrows and no more surface evidence of cracks.  keeping my fingers crossed!