Bow refinishing help please!!!

[LittleBen]

OK so I learned the hard way that vintage bows and FF string MAY not always mix well.

I have a 70's york thunderbolt that needed a new string ... made a 14strand 8125 string, which almost immediately started chewing up the maple/walnut overlays on the bottom limb tip. I thinkt he groove was not very well done.

Anyway, I filed them off, and replaced with 2 1/16" thick phenolic overlays. Now things are good.

BUT ... I decided since I had to refinish the tips, I would (stupidly) just do a quick (haha) refinish on the bow (should have stopped here and just dont the tips).

It's become a disaster. I tried to use wipe on poly ... which came out liek crap (very uneven and streaky on the glass)(should have stopped here) so I sprayed a final coat with gloss laquer ... came out okay (should have stopped here), until coat #2 began running (should have stopped here).

Sanded that off and into the poly, and put a last coat of wipe on poly. It looks like certifiable crap right now ... will have to work at least for the next week or so because I'm taking it hunting. The weather is supposed to be dry, and the bow does have a few good coats of poly so I'm sure it's protected, but it look slike dirt.

Any advice on how to refinish? I think I'm planning to sand off all the poly, and try again with a spray on finish like helmsman spar urethane. Any thoughts?

Don't have a spray gun so thunderbird is out of the question unfortunately.  That is unless someone out there who's using T-bird wants to spray a bow for me? Any advice is appreciated, and any offers on spraying, please PM me.

I'd post pictures but it'd just be embarrassing.
Thanks.

[Roy from Pa]

I'd sand it smooth and spray with a rattle can. After the final coat is on I'd wait 5 minutes and hold the can back about 14 inches and mist it lightly, that will cut the gloss.

But hell I've never sprayed a bow so what do I know?      

[LittleBen]

I think thats basically what I'm going to do. Talked to canopyboy and he also recommended rattle can lacquer. I think thats as idiot-proof as it gets ... something that I need.

It'll have to make it the week or maybe the hunting season looking lke snot and then I'll get it refinished properly. Might also go and seal the riser and limb edges with superglue beforehand to get max waterproofing, then just hit it with some satin laquer, or do like you said and give it a mist at 14" or so to cut the shine ...

[mjwhitby]

I really like true oil. Just wipe it on and let dry. Use multiple coats and buff it with 0000 steel wool. Pretty simple and looks great when finished. It's also really easy to touch up later. Just my 2 cents.

[JJB]

I've had good luck sanding everything off, sealing the riser with super glue (locktite), sealing the limbs with tru oil - 3 very light coats, then a rattle can from a distance over everything.
-Jay

[JamesV]

When I use wipe on polly it always takes 5-7 coats to look good. I lightly sand with 400 paper between coats.

[Cootling]

Agreed with JamesV.  I use a "wiping varnish" (oil-base poly thinned with about 2/3 mineral spirits) to finish furniture.  It is about the same as your wipe-on poly (but maybe even thinner).  If you use a very thin mixture, the coats level well and don't pick up dust before they dry.

For application, you first have to lay down a decent film.  This can take quite a few coats.  Then sand lightly with wet paper (400 grit or finer) and thoroughly clear away residue before the final coat.  

I haven't tried it on a bow, but I think it would work the same. It's just not a process you complete in a coat or two.