Should I add a power lam?

[Kopper1013]

Hey guys glued up my very first rider the other day out of Brazilian teak. Then asked you guys about using wood flooring for my riser (I know, wrong order) Macbow suggested using I-beam style construction, toooooo late :-( now I'm wondering since I neglected the I-beam construction will adding a power lam possibly save this riser/bow from becoming fire wood?

[macbow]

Some,pictures about now would help .
On the riser a lot depends on how thick it is.
Using a power lam is really for moving the area that bends farther from the fades.
So design of the riser has to be taken into consideration.
Adding a power lam. Also thickens and therefore reinforces the riser. Again all depends on riser handle design.

[bornofmud]

Definitely some pics would help. Powerlams are generally used to change how the limb bends, rather than as reinforcement for the riser.  You will likely be fine if you are going for a traditional style riser. Overlays should help.  Also depends on the poundage you're going for.  Might want to keep this one a little lighter just to be safe, say around 45-50 max. Just suggestions!  I would definitely finish the bow!

[Kopper1013]

Ok guys, I'm working from a phone here so having trouble uploading pics, would it be ok to email them to you? That seems to be easyer for me but don't want to be intrusive.... But without a pic a can say my bow will be built like this- .043 glass, .90 parallel lam, .70 parallel lam .03 glass then the riser then another .04 parallel lam, .09 taper of .002 and .05 glass... My riser is Brazilian teak with 6 inlays of core-tuff and 3 inlays of ash

[macbow]

Ok now that we are clear it is a glass bow. You should be fine especially with the riser. Glass holds everything together in my opinion.
I think you can get the photobucket app for your phone to help with pictures.

[Kopper1013]

Thanks macbow, you've been very helpful spent all day yesterday thinking I screwed everything up. Was happy to read your reply this morning. I'll have to try and be more clear with my questions down the road.

 I'll look into the photobucket app. and see what it's all about.

[Dale in Pa]

Kopper, you might want to edit the specs on your bow. I read it 3 times and still don't have a clue what you mean. Do you mean .090 and .070 parallels?

.09 taper of .002 and .05 glass?

[Kopper1013]

You are correct, I forgot my zeros hahaha bet I couldn't have pulled that bow when I finished! I was shooting for 62ish pounds at 28" which should put me into the upper 50's with my short 26.5" draw length

[Dale in Pa]

Still don't know what you mean about .09 taper of .002 and .05 glass.

[Kopper1013]

I ment I'm using .05" clear glass on the belly and my last lam. Before the belly glass starts at .09" thick in the center of the riser and will taper at a rate of .002 an inch to the tips

[Dale in Pa]

Still don't understand. Are you saying the glass is tapered? You didn't list any tapered lams in your stack. Usually to get good info on a build,you have to give the total stack thickness at the thick or butt end and the total taper per inch. For instance,.380 butt with .003 taper.

Some of us list the butt thickness to include the glass,some just the wooden lams,but at any rate you need to list the glass thickness also as that will change #age more than the wooden lam thickness.

[Kopper1013]

Sorry I'm really new to this all, still learning all the lingo and what not, didn't realize that's how u guys measure. With that said I'm going with .423 at the butt-end with a .003 taper was going to go with a .002 but choose to change it a little. Is that better?

[Dale in Pa]

Much better,now anybody will understand what you mean.