Author Topic: TD reurve rebuild  (Read 243 times)

Offline timbermoose

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TD reurve rebuild
« on: May 11, 2014, 08:00:00 PM »
Awhile back my wife bought me a "warf" recurve. checkmate limbs and old pse riser. i only shot it a few time cause its just too heavy(the bow, not draw weight)....and ugly. been on the wall unstrung for about a year now.   :(   so im thinking about building a new riser for it and gots some questions for the TD gurus.

specs of limbs; 21" from end of string pad to string nocks. marked on them 66" 46# maple lams,white glass, redish brown wedge.

1st; how short could i go for a riser and not cause a problem with the limbs? 18"? i draw to 30".

2nd; what is a general idea for limb pad angle for recurve? 18* 20*

3rd; from shortening the riser, how much could i expect to gain in draw weight?

4th; there are 2 mounting holes in each limb, through and through. one was taper bored for use on the pse riser. could i epoxy fill these and re-drill?

was thinking maybe an actionwood riser. what ya'll think?

i'll try to get some pics up soon as my wife lets me use MY camera.
Backwoods Archery 66" 54@30
coaster500 yew elb 67" 55@29 -trade bow 2013
Heartlandbows 60" 60@29 -trade bow 2014

Offline talkingcabbage

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Re: TD reurve rebuild
« Reply #1 on: May 11, 2014, 09:48:00 PM »
1.  The td risers I build are right at 19" and work really well.
2. In short, yes.  I use 21*.
3.  Yes
4.  Yes you can fill those.  Then sand smooth and put an overlay on it to hide the ugly.  Would look much nicer.
Actionwood works great.  I've used it for quite a few td risers and never had a problem.  You can use just a plain block or add an accent to dress it up a bit, but because the actionwood is already busy, less is more imo.
Joe

"If your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt."

One of two things will happen; it'll either work or it won't.

Offline savage1

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Re: TD reurve rebuild
« Reply #2 on: May 12, 2014, 08:06:00 AM »
I'll take the eye sore off your hands. Pm me.

The thing is that limb angle at that riser length gives you that draw cycle. Is it short or can you over draw the bow if you try?
So if you shorten the riser you gain about #2 per inch and lose draw length so then you would need to move the throat away from you respectively.
If you go to 21° angle you will lay those limbs back a lot and you will need long arms to pull them to a good place.
If the plates in the warf are parallel you are near 16° but if they are a wedge(unlikely)it will be like 14 °-12°.
If the bow draws good Don't change angle.
Keep in mind that riser length is in appearance only. Metal bows can have short pockets.
Just measure distance limb bolt to bolt and the bolt center to the fade out.
Now you design your new length riser based on moving the fades in or out to change o.a.l.

Lou
Beetle kill, Usa.

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