Limb Tips...Before or After Grooves?

[Standswittaknife]

Curious if you guys add the limb tip materiel before or after you add the sting grooves to the limbs? thanks,

[delongbows]

I always put the overlays on after. I like to check weight, tiller, timing, etc. first. It's a lot easier to make adjustments without the overlays on.

[Trux Turning]

I cut them first for the same reasons stated above.

[Bowjunkie]

For me it depends. It depends on the type of bow, because if it's a bamboo backed bow and I'm putting horn tips on, I put them on first, completely shape the tips, then  cut grooves in. If it's a glass bow of a design I'm very familiar with, and I know the weight will be close and long string tillering shows the timing will be good, as with wooden bows, I put overlays on first, cut grooves afterwards. If I'm unsure of timing, afraid draw weight may be light, etc I'll cut shallow grooves, just enough that a string will stay on long enough to check weight, and if I need to shorten it, will do so, cut in new temporary grooves and brace again to check it, and if it's good... THEN build up the overlays.

The more experience you gain and the more you pay attention to the little details, the more predictable things become, and the better things will move forward for you.

[Pat B]

I leave the tips wide(3/4" to 1")and just cut temporary string grooves until at least first brace to be sure the string lines up along the bow. If adjustments are needed it I easy to do with wider tips. I do the same with the handle area. You don't need finished tips or handle to tiller the bow.

[Kopper1013]

So guys I tried to do my grooves before I added my overlays and it was almost impossible to brace the bow without my string Popping off I didn't dare draw it, how do you guys do this?
I know if I had filed the groove into the back of the limb it would work but didn't want to do that before tips cause I'd have that groove forever under the tip.

[Swissbow]

I use a chainsaw file and cut them before adding the overlays/tips. I cut them about 2mm ( approx. 0.1 inch ) deep. Before I put the string on the bow for the first time I round the edges of the grooves to prevent that the string get worn off.

 
_________
Andy

[Pat B]

I'm building wood bows and I just cut grooves in the side of the limb tips with a chainsaw file like Andy is doing in the pic. I usually mark 1" down on the belly and 3/4" down on the back. That usually is at about a 45 deg angle that I cut the groove.

[takefive]

Another wood bow guy here and I put the overlays on right away and cut the grooves with a chainsaw file.  It just holds the string better that way.  I've had the string slip off while tillering on my tree with just the grooves on the sides and that always scares the crap out of me.    

[Eric Krewson]

I glue on a big, clunky, oversized overlay first. I only put a groove across the back and will have an extra stringing groove in the overlay so I can string a bow that is way over poundage.

When I get to normal brace I will mark where the string lays on the sides of the limb and cut my side string grooves. They will be perfectly placed this way.

   

I always have a bow just about completely tillered before I finish shaping the overlays.

 

[Standswittaknife]

Thanks guys,
some very interesting points.  I guess I should have mentioned that these are laminated glass takedown longbows.  

Eric,
yolu think that will work on a lam bow?

[Sam Harper]

I glue the tip overlays on before hand.  I don't find it difficult to make adjustments after the tip overlays are glued on.  I do it first because if you file nocks without the overlay, then either the back of it is going to be sharp and cut into the string, or you're going to have to round it.  And if you round it, then when you put the tip overlay on, there's going to be a little gap in the groove where the limb the tip overlay meet.  Gluing the tip overlay on first just makes everything tidier, it seems to me.

[Bowjunkie]

... and me.