Board bow thickness

[Dalton63841]

I know the general method of building a board bow is to use a 1x2(0.75x1.5) or 1x3(0.75x2.5), and then rip just the limbs down to approximately a half inch thick. Then apply the boards in the center for the handle, where it is still 0.75" thick. Then shape and tiller, etc...(I've read over the whole process about a billion times) At least, that seems to be a popular convention for how to.

My question is, would it make any difference if I were to rip the entire board down to a half inch thick, then find the center point, apply the handle pieces, etc.? On one hand, I think it should ultimately come out the same, but on the other hand, I feel there must be a reason why this isn't generally done. Like maybe it would make the handle more likely to separate or something...

[aus-archer]

you're spot on about the handle, without having a fade from bending limb to the stiff handle it puts the glue join under a lot of stress which will make it likely to separate

[Mad Max]

go to
poorfolkbows
he has information about that and lot's more

[macbow]

Dalton,  the concern on the handle is legit.
To help avoid that make the glued on handle a little long to add plenty of taper.

When backing with something like bamboo a  tapered piece called a power lam also can help with the transition.

[Dalton63841]

Thanks everyone. I thought that would be the case.

[KellyG]

Don't the glass guys over come this issue with a power lam on the back of the bow going from fade to fade?

[Dalton63841]

Originally posted by KellyG:
Don't the glass guys over come this issue with a power lam on the back of the bow going from fade to fade?

Interesting. I think I will go ahead and give this a shot, with the long fades + power lam ideas.

Worst case scenario I'm out the cost of one board. Worth trying it out. Even if it fails I'll have learned something from it.

[macbow]

Dalton what part of the state are you in?

[Dalton63841]

I'm way down in the lower part of the bootheel.

I've come to the conclusion that I am in sore need of better tools. Instead of the board bow, I think I'm going to take my hatchet and take a walk in the woods to find a good stave, and then while it's drying I can save up for a good 14" rasp and a good scraper. At the moment the only rasp I have is the 9" nicholson from Home Depot, which I've heard is a very poor rasp to begin with.

[LittleBen]

You can also get around this issue by using a 1x2 oak board, keeping it long ... say 70" and letting it bend through the handle.

A bow like that will probably require the least wood removal cause I think it will end up much closer to 3/4" in the fades due to the narrow width and the increased length.

[bubby]

find the center of the bow and mark it then take some 1/8" thick strips 12", 11" 10" 8"then lay out the handle and fades, I've done it this waywith no trouble with the handle popping off

[macbow]

Dalton, it is a long drive up to my place. But I'll put out the invite to come and stay several days and build a bow.
Open invite.

[George Tsoukalas]

There's a buildalong for a bend in the handle red oak board bow on  my site. That bow pulled in the 50's.

 http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/index.html

You can rip the board to 1 3/8" and shoot for 45-50#

Jawge

[joe nichols]

I agree with mark.  Look at the oak board build along on  www.poorfolkbows.com,  I started with this and am hunting with the bow I built.  It is the easiest one to build nd you can use it while you are waiting on your stave to dry out.

[bubby]

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,35312.0.html
here's a build along I did over on pa maybe give another option

[Dalton63841]

Oh yea I've gone through a few red oak boards already following those tutorials.

I've read through every one I could find multiple times. My first two were total failures, and my third came out to 25lbs, but developed a hinge after about 20 arrows. I know my biggest problem is the lack of a tiller tree, which will be my next venture. Right now I just a thing rigged up in the bedroom, but I don't have room to stand back away enough to get a really clear view.

I was mostly asking about this because I was curious about trying something a little different.

[KenH]

I'm gonna play Devil's Advocate here and suggest you stop building bows until you get minimum building kit:  

*  Rasp (brand isn't that important at this point.  I like a 4 sided 'hoof rasp for about $10 from Home Depot.

* Palm Sander -- about $25 from Ace Hardware.  And an assortment of sandpaper from 80 to 400 grit or finer. After the rasp use the palm sander, then sanding pads.  Frankly 800 or 1000 grit paper on that sander is a LOT more useful than a scraper.

*  Make That Tillering Tree!!!!  You simply can't build a wooden bow without either a tillering tree or decades of wasting wood while getting the experience necesary to do without!!!

[bubby]

I have to disagree on the scraper vs 1000 grit sand paper, with a good burr a scraper will peel curls of wood off, and you can use a knife for a scraper, as far as a rasp a 4-1 is good, but a good farriers rasp is the ticket and you can get one for $20

[Grandpa Bill]

I will second the farriers rasp and a scraper with a good burr. They are hard to beat when you are shaping a board or a stave. Check with a local farrier -  they usually have old ones for cheap.

Grandpa Bill

[Grandpa Bill]

I will second the farriers rasp and a scraper with a good burr. They are hard to beat when you are shaping a board or a stave. Check with a local farrier -  they usually have old ones for cheap.

Grandpa Bill