Recurve stack help please

[Brett Leinmiller]

So would the tips be .002 by Maddogs suggestion? I understand that was his taper per inch suggestion. It sounded as if that might ALSO be his tip thickness per lam as he refers to his 60" recurve? This is what has me a bit confused. And yes, we are very fortunate to have experienced bowyers being so helpful. Thanks to all.

[Pago]

Under the Maddog scenario the tips would roughly be .0.155" .  The buttv of each wood taper is .080 reducing by .002 each inch towards the tip. So roughly .002 x 30"= 0.06". So 0.08-0.06=0.02". So each lam is 0.02 at the tips, there are two in each limb plus the thickness of the glass and in this case the stabil-kore also. However I am using a total taper of 0.002 which means each taper lam reduces by 0.001 per inch as you move toward the tip. I could also use a single taper lam at .002 per inch and make the second wood lam a parallel. Does that help?

[kennym]

I think Mike meant .002 " per inch as the measurement of amount of taper, not the thickness of tip.

Usually measure lam thickness at other end, or at fades depending on your method of madness...

I'm not much of a recurve guy, was just wondering if the .004" per inch would make the tips twist a bit easier.

Better listen to Mike, he has built more curves than me I'm sure!!

[Brett Leinmiller]

Yes. Thanks for clearing that up for me. Pago, I'm glad your 2 year project is closer to a finish, I'd be super excited to! Keep us in the loop on your build.

[Mike Mecredy]

Like I said, I normally only use  2 laminations for my recurve bows and .030 glass or .040 glass. Example, If each lamination is .100 at he fades (I don't go with butt measurement because my laminations go full length with no joint in the center.)   So from the fade outs to the tips on the 60" bow I make, it's about 20", so at .002 per inch the thickness of each lam at the tip is about .060 each.  So with that scenario, at the fades, and using .030 glass, I have .260-.265, at the tips the thickness is .180 total, giving me a recurve drawing around 55# @ 28".  I consider the tips of my recurve to be "working" and not static by the way.  If I use the same lams but use .040 glass it gives me a stack of .275 - .280 at the fades (I've never gotten .040 glass that was actually that thick, it's usually .038 thick) and Around 60# - 68# @ 28".  (the weight ranges I mentioned I control with the total length of the riser, but that's a whole new can of worms)

[Pago]

Thanks Mike, I'm sure I will reread that post many times in the future. I'm a hands on learner and I'm sure it will mean more to me in the future. Over the past two years I have put together all the equipment I feel I need to make custom bows, I even found a performax thickness sander. But I'm trying to learn to walk before I try to run.  Saving up for some taper sleds now. I like the idea of no butt joints do you use a special sled to accomplish that?

[Mike Mecredy]

I have some 72" sleds that I made myself, one parallel, one .001'inch, and one .002 /inch.  I also have a .002/inch that's 37" long for my youth recurves.

[Pago]

I have been daydreaming on how to go about that. Several times I have nearly purchased maple from home depot to see if I could make my own. I guess I worry too much about being perfect and thinking I need super high tolerance manufactured sleds. Not that yours are not, I just don't know if I could do it with my current skill level and experience.

[Pago]

 

Got the template cut out and the form glued up today. The holidays didn't go as planned but I'll keep chipping away at it maybe I'll have a bow before Easter lol.

[mikkekeswick]

Get that form cut out and get gluing!!!  

[Robertfishes]

It looks like Your making a rubber band form. I have only made "firehose" forms and the top half of form is pretty thick And adds weight to the form. I am using 002/inch total taper in my one piece modified Bingham's design recurve and 003/inch for my 62/64" kennym D/R design bows. I recently made a form for making ILF limbs and I will start off with 003/inch total taper for that one. Good luck with your form and build. A clamp to hold riser centered on form would be a good addition to your form.

[Pago]

Thanks my plan is to put a strip of aluminum on topof the form and probably use an index pin. I hope it all works out I have been studying Kenny's latest form build along its great stuff.