heavily carved handles

[snowplow]

How does one stretch the leather around the heavily carved handles like a shrew or javaman?

I would think glue would have to be involved so it does not try to span the valleys. Even still I cant see how this could be done so beautifully?

I gotta try to put one on my daughters bow. Any tips?

[Bowjunkie]

I use deer leather, which is very stretchy, moreso in one direction than the other... pull it and work it down into where it needs to be, trim, then remove it, lay it out on something flat and spray it with 3M spray adhesive, reapply,  and stitch down the front.

[Roy from Pa]

Use a stretchy leather like tanned deer hide.

[red hill]

Never thought of spray adhesive. Good one, junkie.

[fujimo]

i build quite a few saddles and other leatherwork- so i will give you a few trade secrets...
veg leather will stretch better with water, chrome tan needs heat usually in the form of steam, so that the leather does not dry and crack.
this is a general rule of thumb, but as pointed out above, some leathers will stretch better than others( deer leather, goat also stretches well- so does horse, and also different cuts, bellies stretch better than butts or backs- neck is very tough and wrinkly)

so here is a good way to deal with compound curves, pre skive and roughly shape the leather- being sure to leave it oversize though! then soak the leather, until wet thru- ( about a 3 or 4 mins), stretch it to the handle, stretching those areas that need to indent - valleys, grooves etc. i like to leave the leather long on the stitch lines, and use spring clamps to hold the leather together . allow the leather to dry ..properly!!!!
now take your contact cement- make sure it is nice and runny- if it has dried in the can some- add a little thinners- acetone will work in a pinch.
now size the leather and the handle area, with one smooth consistent ( no globs) coat.
allow to dry thoroughly. you dont want it wet tacky, you want it past that stage.
the thinned glue will really penetrate the flesh side of the leather really nicely.
also the right time to trim all the leather to the finished size- punch your holes for stitching etc- final prep time , pre-glue up.

now have a mister bottle with water in it, and start to spray the hair side( outside) of the leather with the water- making sure you dont get the glue side wet, but it will get wet thru to the glue- but from  the inside- when the leather is wet, dab dry any water overspray on the glue side- some times i will even hit it with a hair dryer on the glue side- to really dry it, now put a good thick coat of glue on both presized surfaces, this may take one or two quick applications, now apply the leather to the surface immediatly. the wet glue  on wet glue will allow the glue to slide and move around.
now you can position it exactly, and also work the now wet leather into all the nooks and crannies, and at the same time getting good glue contact. and stitch up where you need to.

 the glue will dry before the wet leather dries- so keep working the leather into the tight spots. allowing the glue to work while the leather is nice and malleable.

wet leather is the best to form with, this process allows you to get excellent adhesion to " wet leather".
it takes a bit longer- but the result is truly a higher quality when dealing with very convoluted glue surfaces.

but for most bow handles, as junkie and roy said above - some good stretchy deer hide and spray contact will give an excellent finish.

[Bowjunkie]

Great info fujimo.

Just for more info.... I use a decent sized needle.... with an eye just big enough for artificial sinew to go through, and then just stitch it down... no prepunched holes or marks. It pokes right through the deer hide... but deer hide is strong enough to keep from tearing out.

[fujimo]

thanks Jeff,yea i should have been more accurate when i said to punch the holes, i actually should have said to use a saddle stitchers awl, to make the holes.    
usually on a lether stitch line one only punches(awl) the hole right ahead of the needle, stitch the hole  and so on, cos leather being quite dynamic, things can get out of hand real quick, and the pre punched holes wont line up, but on a simple project like a handel, that is mostly glued down, and time is of a factor- racing the drying of the glue- it is good to pre punch.
so you are absolutely correct sir, the correct way is to stitch as you go    :D    
cheers
wayne    

[snowplow]

Thanks guys, that is super helpful.

Fugimo- for the intricate handles, do you use lightweight vegitan or something like deerskin?

[fujimo]

deerskin has lots of stretch- and it is nice and thin, horse has one of the best strength to thickness ratios in leather( hence the base ball mitts etc)
 i like to use a  veg tan with a nubuck finish, or even a suede type finish.
 the veg tan will mold better, but will take a little more work. the deer will also conform very well- but you will be relying on its stretch capabilities and the glue to do the work. but it will be a great finish too!

i have used a lot of goat for bow handles !
tandy etc sell lots of small scraps that work for handle wraps etc- just got to watch that youre not getting junk in the packs- too much belly trims , neck trims or loin leather is not much good- look at the underside( flesh side) and make sure the fibres dont appear loose and the leather has a kind of a spongy feel.
the fibers need to be tight, and the leather a nice firm feel.
wrinkles on the hair side will indicate that its from an area on the animal that bends and creases a lot- you really want to avoid those spots. the nicest pieces are what the call "tooling bellies"-
 http://www.tandyleatherfactory.ca/en-cad/locale/ca/tooling-shoulders-bends-bellies.aspx
 look for what they call "veg bellies)
- they are nice and thin- stretch well, and you can sand the hair side with some fine waterpaper to give  a nice nubuck finish- they take dye well.
ask them to show you some "bridle backs" or butts, and then show you some poor scrap bellies, and learn the difference!

cheers
wayne

[snowplow]

Thanks a ton Wayne that was sooo helpful. I do a lot of little leather projects and that will help me a lot!