Author Topic: How about a tillering and timing tutorial (Read 1578 times)

Bowjunkie · « **Reply #40 on:** January 24, 2015, 04:45:00 PM »

Sockrsblur, for me the line is at 1 5/8"... that's the middle of my middle finger. The line's precise location will depend on where each of us elects to set the nocking point, how wide our fingers are, etc. Just lay everything out on the wall or a piece of paper and it will be apparent where the line and hook should go.

Sockrsblur · « **Reply #41 on:** January 24, 2015, 08:13:00 PM »

Ok, thank you sir!

macbow · « **Reply #42 on:** January 25, 2015, 06:26:00 PM »

Up to this point I have not made my shelfs a fixed distance from center. Usually just fisted the handle and drew a spot for the arrow pass.

I'll have to measure and see how they came out.
Jeff, Roy if you use a number like the 1 5/8" is,that close for most folks that use the same draw.

Bowjunkie · « **Reply #43 on:** January 26, 2015, 05:58:00 AM »

Mac, yes, should be close. Although I used the width of my own fingers to come up with that number.

I got there by measuring up from the shelf location to the bottom of the nock point(3/8"), down 1/4" for the width of the nock, and down another 1/8" to allow the arrow a little clearance over the shelf. That puts us right back at shelf height. And then my middle finger is 3/4" wide so half of that is 3/8".

Since I feel my middle finger is where the center of the pressure on my string hand is, my string fulcrum is 3/8" below the shelf... or 1 5/8" above a 4" handle's center... so that is where I hook onto the string to pull it on the tree.

BenBow · « **Reply #44 on:** January 26, 2015, 09:17:00 AM »

Jeff it appears that at the top of the tree your bows is held stationary so the bow won't tip either way when pulling the string. Is that correct or is the bow free to pivot? Currently my setup lets the bow pivot and I work the limbs so the bow stays level as the string is pulled down.

Roy from Pa · « **Reply #45 on:** January 26, 2015, 09:34:00 AM »

His bow just sits in the cradle like mine does in my picture. They are free to pivot if one limb is stronger than the other.

Bowjunkie · « **Reply #46 on:** January 26, 2015, 10:33:00 AM »

Ben, in the above picture it is supported more towards the left and right ends of the handle, so is less prone to tip, but WILL if the limbs are unbalanced by much. It will tip in that cradle before the hook drifts more than about a half inch or so from the reference line.

I also have inserts I made that drop into the cradle to change its shape so that the bow will tip much more easily, and/or to mimic different pressure points.

ColonelSandersLite · « **Reply #47 on:** January 27, 2015, 09:03:00 PM »

Well, I just bit the bullet and am basically set to try this information out.

This time, I wanna try out a hickory backing, heat treating, and back setting as well. I'm pretty excited about the project. Damn you both for reinfecting my with the bow building bug.

Roy from Pa · « **Reply #48 on:** January 31, 2015, 04:22:00 PM »

WELL? Pictures?

ColonelSandersLite · « **Reply #49 on:** January 31, 2015, 05:43:00 PM »

Sadly, the weather here is suck right now and my "workshop" is my backyard.

I should be able to get it roughed out and heat treated and bent to shape on tuesday I hope.

Also, I'll start a new thread for the build. No need to clutter here.

Pyro43 · « **Reply #50 on:** July 03, 2015, 09:06:00 PM »

Hey guys.

So what ever happened to that tillering/timing tutorial BowJunkie? Is it posted somewhere else on the forum and I just haven't found it yet?

The bit you did explaining the dynamic balance point is very much appreciated, It goes well with what Dean's article talks about.

I'm working on my first bow, and every little bit helps. thanks for the knowledge you do share, I'm sure your life is busy like the rest of ours, so the time you take for others says a lot about you.

Bowjunkie · « **Reply #51 on:** July 04, 2015, 07:25:00 AM »

I just haven't done it yet. I aplologize. And yep, been busy. Haven't worked on a bow in quite some time. Don't even have my tillering tree installed yet. Bow season is fast approaching and I want to make a new one to hunt with this year, but I dont know if that's going to happen. Yesterday I moved big rocks, and today, when I get off the heating pad, I'm installing chain link fence. I need to clone myself

Kevinnator11 · « **Reply #52 on:** July 13, 2015, 05:04:00 PM »

Awesome information. I finished the basic tillering yesterday on a Bamboo/Osage/Osage that I tried to mimic Roy's builds with. Happy I'm early enough to use this method to get it finished up. Thanks a lot for the tips. Gonna go home and draw a line on my tree now.

bowberry · « **Reply #53 on:** July 13, 2015, 09:08:00 PM »

I should really stop reading this forum. I have a good bow that I love. Plus I just won a store bought bow in a raffle.I just want to work on my form, shoot 100,000 arrows and get ready for october. Now all of sudden I'm redesigning my tree, making a hardware parts list, thinking about the staves I have on deck, and wondering how long I need to dry that last piece I cut. Thanks alot guys. This is all really good stuff, but I think I might need a twelve step program.

Roy from Pa · « **Reply #54 on:** July 14, 2015, 02:16:00 PM »

Come on Bowjunkie, get off your butt and get er done..

ty_in_ND · « **Reply #55 on:** July 15, 2015, 09:59:00 AM »

As long as someone brought this thread up again (I can't believe I missed it the first time...), thanks again Bowjunkie for sharing your insight on tillering. I read and re-read your posts on this thread and it totally makes sense to me as far as where to pull on the tillering string. I do have a little question, though:

While I understand why you'd want to pull more in line with where the archer is going to pull on the string, would there be a difference pulling the tillering string with your fingers instead of a pulley?

I only ask because if you're trying to reproduce how the archer is pulling on the string (even having different spots for split finger and 3 under), then wouldn't the pulley drawing on a single point be more akin to someone using a mechanical release vs using their fingers? Also, I've read many posts and seen pictures of how bows look different in the hand at full draw vs on the tillering tree at full draw. Whether or not this is because of the bowyer pulling the tillering string in the middle, I can't say. It seemed like in most of the pictures the bow's tiller looked better in the hand. So I just wonder if you were to tiller with the bow in hand if the tillering process would go better or not.

Just so you know, I will be using your method of tillering as soon as I get a tillering tree set up, but I was curious if you had given it a thought. Thanks again!

Bowjunkie · « **Reply #56 on:** July 15, 2015, 10:19:00 AM »

I don't think any difference is enough to matter, but others feel it is and make provisions for it with leather or strapping to spread out the area of pressure applied to the string. Try it both ways and see for yourself.

ty_in_ND · « **Reply #57 on:** July 15, 2015, 12:43:00 PM »

As soon as I get enough free time, I certainly will... that is, if I ever do get some time!

Dan Landis · « **Reply #58 on:** July 15, 2015, 09:17:00 PM »

I recently changed to this method of tillering and must say that the last two bow made using this method have been the sweetest shooting bows that I have ever made, not perfect, but much better than anything I've been able to build so far. Both are selfbows, one a 64" osage and the other a 68" Honey Locust from billets.

Roy from Pa · « **Reply #59 on:** July 16, 2015, 05:06:00 AM »

Yupper, Dan. They sure do shoot sweet and quiet.

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Author Topic: How about a tillering and timing tutorial (Read 1578 times)

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