First trilam. What now.

[Jrunner]

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After a lot of research on this site I am ready to start tillering my first trilam.  It is hickory, cherry and ipe.  Can I start by removing the corners as described in Dean Torges book with a rasp? I ordered the bowyers edge tool and scrapers but they won't be in for a while.

Also I read that Roy cuts an inch off to make his bow asymmetrical.  I am not sure if I this would affect the recurved end.  Also should I offset the handle from center or just go 2" on each side and place arrow rest above 2" mark.  I'm sure you all have answered these questions before but I was having trouble finding them.  Thanks in advance.

[takefive]

Jeez...where the heck is Roy when you need him?    
Here's a thread that he helped a guy along with a while back.  Should answer a few of your questions until Roy rolls in.
Good luck to you!

 http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=009703;p=1

[takefive]

Here's another one.  They're both boo backed, but it's the same principle as a hickory backed bow.  I make mine with symmetric limbs and put my rest about 1 1/2" up from the center of the handle.  Then I tiller it on my tree from that point (where the rest is).  I'll wait 'til Roy chimes in to tell me I'm doing it all wrong.  

 http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=012149;p=1

[Roy from Pa]

Since the bow is laid out symmetrical now, find the exact center of the riser from tip to tip, measure up 2 inches from center and that is the top of handle, "arrow rest". Then measure down 2 inches from center and that's the bottom of the handle. You could cut 1 inch off the bottom limb after finding the center as above. It won't change the reflex too much. However, I cut 1 1/4 off the bottom limb before I do my glue up. Yes you can start rasping in the facets now.

[Pat B]

If you leave it symmetrical you can decide top and bottom later. I'd start working it like any stave and Dean's method will work fine.

[LittleBen]

Originally posted by Pat B:
If you leave it symmetrical you can decide top and bottom later. I'd start working it like any stave and Dean's method will work fine.

X2

[Roy from Pa]

If you leave it symmetrical you can decide top and bottom later.

Only if he pulls it from the center of the handle and leaves it symmetrical! But I don't adhere to pulling from the center of the handle, then pulling it 2.5 inches higher than that when shooting it. Why pull a bow on a tree from some other place than where your drawing hand will be when shooting?