Wood bow backing, shipping problems, possible solution

[Troy D. Breeding]

Several fellows have inquired about quarter sawn hickory, maple or other bow backing.

So far my biggest problem is how to ship with out it being a major task or sending the shipping cost through the roof.

Yesterday, Robertfishes threw an idea at me that sounded possible.

After a few hours in the shop I may have solved the problem.

A 4.5" scarf joint...

To check out everything I took a couple pieces of scrap and reduced it to .125" in thickness. I then sanded in the 4.5" scarf joint on both pieces. With the help of a little Goattuff Superglue the joint shows to be solid.

 

I took a few minutes this morning to hand sand the ends smooth and blend everything together.

 

After bending it several times in the shop I took a picture of the piece to show that there doesn't show to be much of a stiff area at the joint.

 

Not sure if I'd want to trust the joint with  just superglue, but if joined with smooth-on or another slow set epoxy I think it would be as solid as any other part of the wood.

Next comes the question of required length. After doing a little more checking I found that the triangle postal boxes I use will allow me to ship 38" pieces. Once joined two 38" pieces will produce a 71.5" backing.

I'd also think that for best results the joint would need to be in the grip section of the riser.

Well,,,, Does this sound like something that would work????

[monterey]

I'm pretty sure that would work.  Would you offer them with and without the sanding done.  For me, I'd rather pay less and do my own joints.

[Roy from Pa]

Looks good, Troy..

[Troy D. Breeding]

Monterey,

Yes sir, I'd think offering either way (with scarf joint or without) would be an option. However, I've built a jig that allows for as close to matched joints as possible.

I'm sure there are several fellows that can make the joint without any problem.

However, that's not the ones I'm trying help.

The fellows that are working to build a bow with limited equipment and knowledge of wood jointery are the ones I made this jig for.

Now comes the task of finding good quarter sawn material. Hard Maple I have in stock. Hickory may be the needle in the haystack.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Check Menards Troy. They have the best hardwood selection of all the big box joints by far. At least they do up here.

[Robertfishes]

Troy, do you know Jack McCoy down south of you in Peebles? He has 2 saw mills. I bought some air dried hard maple from him on one of my trips to Peebles.. He had some Ash and other hard woods, he might have hickory?

[Troy D. Breeding]

I've got one local wood store that carries a lot of hickory. I bought the piece I plan to use for a backing there. Just had to pick through several boards to find one that had quarter sawn along one side. If I dig deep enough there might be a piece or two of quarter sawn hiding in those stacks.

[J.F. Miller]

Troy, before I gave up on hickory for wooden bow backing, I spliced hickory backing several times and never had a problem. it will work fine.

[Troy D. Breeding]

Jamie,

I couldn't why it would give a problem either. I've laminated wood together for heavy stress parts in furniture several times without a problem and that was using wood glue.

[cunruhshoot]

Troy - I am in for a piece of hickory for sure and how about another deal. Add some Osage with the Z-Splice ready for glue up!

[Roy from Pa]

A real bowyer would learn how to make Z splices..    For $19.99, I will learn ya..  

[mikkekeswick]

Troy -let me just throw this one out there for you. Can you get me green (ideally dripping wet but air dried some is ok) hard maple. The grain needs to be flawlessly straight, like straight edge straight. Minimum dimensions of 2 inch wide, 3/4 thick and 30 inches long. Obviously bigger is fine. I need to be able to get flat sawn pieces out of it that would be 1 3/4 x 3/4 x 28.

[Troy D. Breeding]

Mike,

Green wood isn't that hard to find, Super straight grained quarter sawn wood is about as easy to find as hens teeth.

The quarter sawn Maple I have is kiln dried. The grain is pretty straight, but not straight edge straight.

I'm not saying it cant be found, but it would be expensive just from the aspect of the time required to sort though stacks of material.

[mikkekeswick]

Troy - it would be for the core in a hornbow. That's why I need it green (for ease of steaming. I'm not really too concerned how much it costs if it's something you can do?
All the maple we get this side of the pond has obviously been kiln dried - this makes it completely unsuitable for a Turkish hornbow core due to how far you have to steam bend it. Kiln dried wood will break almost every time. Green is a different matter.
Flat sawn would be fine too. I would take whatever sized bit's you could find as long as I can get my minimum sizes out of it.
I understand you'd have to look through a pile of wood to find what i'm asking for but like I say if it's something you can do - i'll pay you for the trouble!

[Troy D. Breeding]

Mike,

I'll do a little looking. Never know what I'll find. If I come up with anything I'll let you know.

[halfseminole]

I'll join Mike.  I need horn bow core material as well.

[Troy D. Breeding]

It will be a little while before I can do any looking. I've got more wood than I have request for at this time and want be making a run that would take me into saw mill areas.

[cunruhshoot]

Originally posted by Roy from Pa:
A real bowyer would learn how to make Z splices..    For $19.99, I will learn ya..      

Roy if you were within reach for me I would be over your place so often...you would be paying me $19.99 to get out of your shop!    :D

[Troy D. Breeding]

Cam,

Your not the only one!!